Gain arete on far right via good holds, continue up arete.

Wiley Right

Wiley Left

Whales Back

The Perforator (V4 Var)

Das Boot (Jump Start)

Bill’s Problem

Fingertip Mantle

The Gun Fighter

Das Boot (Hang Start)

Perforator right

Das Boot

Ther is really no hard part of the climb, in my opinion, others may think differently

Start with right hand on undercling, left hand on left side pull. move to the right facing left leaning side pull. Pink is off continue up seam staying holds below it. Top out. This route has 3 variations to it. a V2,3,4. This is the V4 variation and in my opinion the better one.

Left hand on the side pull, right hand on the pinch (if you are short you may have to jump for it) And Go up. This is the just the V1 variation of the other Das Boots climbs.

Starting at two crimps that are horizontal razor blades. Tick tack your feet up high enough and do a harder version of finger tip mantle .

Starts on a decent side pull crack for the left hand. Make a couple small precise moves up various crimps. Crux is bringing your feet high on those previous crimps to mantle.

Start on two opposing crimps with right foot low and left. pop up for right pinch (crux) contue up left facing flake/seam.

Hang start off of good left leaning edge that is about eye level. Find good feet and campus right to good hold. 

Start on overhanging holds, follow seam up and left

Das Boot starts on the initial approach side of the Wiley Thompson and is a sit start. Start holds are two flat edges that are vertically oriented and requires compression to get of the ground . Great compression/dynamic moves characterize this problem!

The Wiley Thompson Boulder is often the first boulder at Beardsley for climbers visiting the area for the first time.  It is also one of the nicer boulders found at Beardsley, with easy access, flat landings, and a nice array of problems that run from 5.8 up to V6 and good holds all the way to tiny crimps that will make your tips cry. The standard descent from the summit of Wiley is down the northwest corner of the boulder on big holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wiley Thompson Boulder