A nice lead on very pretty rock with excellent protection. 

  From the narrow ledge, start slightly left of a vertical crack that's out of reach from the start.  Move up and right to the crack, then follow the crack system on to the top.

Wild Iris

The King of Bling

Phantom Power

Medusa Tree Direct

Astro Boy

Sideways Glance

Strange Fruit

Twinkle Toes

White Lightning

Autumn Sonata

Pickin' n' Grinnin'

Dead Cow

Bishop of Krunk

Medusa Tree

Shots Fired aka Welcome to Jamestown

Climb the wide crack in the corner, using the face as needed as the corner crack narrows...dirty up high...needs a good cleaning. Double Ring Anchors on the face to the left.

The route climbs the slabby face to a stance left of the roof.  Pull up through small overlap, then continue up the steep face past a couple of fixed pins.

Climb the slab past one bolt to the ledge.  Clip a belay bolt with a long runner then crimp past a bolt up to a good holds below the roof.  Surmount the roof via cryptic beta to a stance.  Now, climb the beautiful white face via rounded edges past a few more bolts to the real crux before reaching the anchors

For the 5.11 variation instead of heading left at the bulge go straight up through the bulge via a thin crack/seam on slopers.  Then continue to the same anchors as Medusa Tree.

The route originally was freed by Greg at 12d/13a, ad listed in the 2nd Dixie craggers.  Upon repeat attempts a key foot broke in the crux, changing the rating to 12d/A0, according to the 3rd Dixie craggers.  I called Watford and asked him what happened with the rating and that's what I was told, and it makes sense looking at the rock.  Over a month or so one winter (2013?) myself, Ardian Prishtina, and Tim Maddox worked out and trained for the new beta.  Ardian made a repeat right after me and confirmed the grade.   Step straight left off the ledge that White Lighting starts on.  (Please build a mini anchor here to pull your ankles away from the ledge). Boulder up the technical, beta intensive thin seem to the powerful face crux when the seem disappears.  Continue up the crack, traverse right, and up the beautiful corner to the bolted anchor.   It is possible to TR this route with some directionals.  But cleaning while lowering is a pain in the ass.  A medium size nut is helpful just for cleaning because it gives you something to hang on while digging out your mank cams.  After blowing it on redpoint attempts we utilized a system of downfalling to clean the gear.

Sideways Glance climbs a couple of roofs (crux) with some balancy headwall moves in between.  The first roof is just past the mentioned loose block.  The second is about 3/4 of the way up and is climbed via a flake.

Climb the slab past a bolt to a big ledge.  Locate the small left facing corner with a wide crack....load that bad boy up.  Climb up the corner just a touch until you can swing around to the right via horizontal cracks and holds...don't forget the gear or you will probably break both ankles when/if you fall on the slab below.  Placing gear from a tenuous stance near here is probably the crux.  Tip toe up and right to a ledge below a crack that leads to a mini-roof with another crack and a tree directly above.  Enjoy!

One of a small handful of sport routes at Jamestown, Twinkle Toes requires crimps and delicate balance.  An excellent climb. 

  From the ledge, make a tenuous mantel move to a small ledge, then continue up the face on thin holds to the top.

Moderate sidepulls and underclings lead to a 15 foot long overhanging thin hands to ringlock splitter to a jug. Felt easy for the grade because it was so short.

Thin moves down low give way to great face climbing past three roofs.  The crux upper roof may feel harder than the grade unless you have big fingers (rattly fingerlocks over the roof) or a long reach.  Great route that needs to be climbed more to clean off some of the lichen.

An excellent crack lead that will have you pickin' your pro carefully and grinnin' when you reach the anchors.  As the Dixie Cragger's Atlas says, this route is much nicer than it looks from down at the sopping wet wall below the ledge where it starts. 

  From the far left end of the ledge, climb a well-protected vertical crack to the top.  Sustained and reachy in places.  For more grinnin', start instead at ground level by climbing the first part of Bishop of Krunk and make a tricky traverse right under a roof to the ledge above the water seepage, then continue up the crack.

Bishop of Krunk climbs a short slabby section to a roof.  Crank the roof (crux) to some great jugs.  Continue up a steep, thin face via crimps and tricky pro, that ultimately eases off as you get to the anchors.

A real Jamestown classic, Medusa Tree has great protection and thought-provoking moves in places.  A must-do for the grade, and a good choice if you're a leader ready to move into 5.9 territory. 

  Starting on a somewhat slabby face (slightly runout, like many starts at Jamestown), move up through cracks to a big horizontal flake.  Work left on the flake and up to a bulge.  At this point, you have a choice of using the easier (5.9) vertical crack on the left to pull the bulge, or the considerably more difficult thin seam on the right (5.11 variation).  After negotiating this crux, move up and right on easy ground to the anchors.

Shots Fired is located on the right edge of the White Wall. The route features a short hand crack sandwiched between two slab sections.Climb the lower slab past a small cam and bolt before mantling onto a ledge. Continue up a short crack section before moving onto the upper slab and arete. Climb the slab using the arete past two more bolts and anchors at the top.

The first line of routes as you come up the approach trail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in White Wall