A nice clean but short slapping arete. You can also use a 2-3 finger pocket on the face.  Power up off the ground and fire up the arete, the topout involves no insecurity on the monster holds.

SW Arete

NW Arete

[Redacted]

This route starts on the horizontal slopers on the right side of the Short Bus boulder.  Move up to a small but positive left hand sidepull, then crank to either a good crimp or the obvious pocket/hole.

This juggy arete can be climbed on long reaches from jugs on the arete and a few jugs on the right face. The topout is easiest directly over the arete, just don't fall on the rocks below.  This is the end of a V5 that climbs from the hueco (route 4 on this rock).

Start both hands in the obvious low hueco, and move up and right along bad edges and pockets until you reach better holds.

Establishing is definitely the hardest part.  The unique solution involves knee barring against you hand in order to reach the first edge.  Expect to lose a little skin on your hand in the process of learning the correct body position.  Be patient because it will feel improbable at first, but once you figure the move out it feels reasonable.

This route barely missed getting a four star rating.  Although it's not contrived and the moves are really good, it's missing the aesthetics, and flow that most classic problems demonstrate. All and all a great problem.

Description

Protection

Routes in [Redacted]