This is perhaps the best route of its grade on the Pass. Chase 8 bolts up the face with some difficult pulls off crimps down low, and a technical crux above a rest at half height.

Problem Child

Northway

Wild at Heart

Trademark

Wild In The Streets

Wild Thing

Four Finger Discount

Red Headed Step Child

Missed the Boat

Delicatessen Ridge

This route is located between

Problem Child

and

Wild Thing

, and was formerly listed as the "Open Project." It climbs up a devious grey face for 40 feet, with a very cool fin feature in the middle, to a no hands rest at 2/3rds height. It then tackles a bouldery overhanging arete. Incredible movement and mostly quality rock make this one of the best hard sport climbs on the pass.

Matt Samet deserves credit for envisioning the line, and placing most of the bolts. Zack Smith also played a huge part in making this line a reality, with some diligent cleaning, moving/adding some bolts, and deciphering the bizarre crux sequences. After struggling on his first try, Tommy crushed the route second go. One of the best bits of redpoint climbing I've witnessed. This route is worth a day away from Rifle!

Pretty easy, very short. Starts on blocks.

Wild at Heart follows the seam, arete, and ultimately the prominent dihedral spiraling around from South Face of Wild Rock. Use the ramp, and clip the first two draws of

Wild in the Streets

to clip the draw leading to the crack. From here, we back clean the first two draws to minimize rope drag. I recommend a locker on the third clip. Now begins the wild ride. Jam the crack, and continue up and right through jams, horns, underclings, mantels, and stems. This climb has all of the moves. Long or double draws on clips 6, 7, and 8 will help with drag.

Wild at Heart is named after an epic David Lynch movie.

The .11b/c "weird" crux is at the 3rd to 4th bolt. Think "higher feet" to make it happen. Then good face climbing up higher to the anchor. A good route to just get the blood going before projecting the harder routes up there.

This is another Pass classic at the grade. Steep, juggy climbing up a corner leads to a cool roof encounter and a good rest after the crux. A few more technical moves gain the chains. This is a great antidote to the generally thin climbing on the Pass.

There are multiple cruxes on this route. This route is actually awaiting a true redpoint, hence the name.

This has a difficult, direct start to the seldom climbed, yet quite good, .12c on Wild Rock's northeast arete. Climb grey edges to a very difficult V10ish slap onto the slab above. A no-hands rest lets you get it all back before entering the .12c's crux above. It is a contestant for the hardest bit of roped climbing on the Pass, although the route climbs more like two boulder problems stacked on top of each other.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wild Rock