Cool, unusual climbing up the black and white streaked wall to the left of Black Bear Tango. Start low in the horizontal crack with a heel toe cam in the hole out left. Work your way up using your pick of the sideways slopers and pinches to reach the vertical cracks up high and easier top out.

Cops

Save Freedom

Soul Sofa

That flaky friend

Compressor Route

Salamander Town

Salamander City

Black bear tango

Salamander Slab Shortcut

Unnamed

When you dance with the bear...

Ankle Breaker

Royalty High

Doin’ black bear stuff

Slab

A route that avoids the trickier blank bottom of the full 20’-22’ slab by starting 5’ up, on top of the small adjacent boulder on the right side of the front face slab.  Holds get better as you get closer to the top. From standing start, use the juggy up-left crack/ledge and a combination of smears and a small feet, and traverse left once you get your feet on the ledge to a good rest.  Climb to the right of the tree and once past move use juggy holds to top out.  As you go past the tree to the top, watch out for thorny vines on your right.

Starting as for the unnamed problem on the right side of the boulder, traverse left on slopey holds to the triangular hold. Top out as for the "Compressor Route."

Sit start below the huge flake, big block behind you. Move through left hand flakes into a right pinch, crux: make a satisfying snatch, use that solid hold to move into the high jugs and top out to the left. 

Follow the big positive flakes along the left side to the top

Start as low as possible on the left-hand sidepull/arete and with a wide pinch for the right hand. Interesting movement leads to the top.

Crouch start, right handed overhead jug. Climb left to a flake. Fun, easier movement to the left ledge top out.

Sit start to Salamander Town. Start matched on a salamander-shaped crimp down and right from the Salamander Town starting jug (OK, it doesn't look anything like a salamander). Get a heel up and make the move to the jug. Climb the rest of the problem as normal. Doesn't really add anything worthwhile to the original problem.

Sit start to “When you dance with the bear...”

 start low and climb up to a bear hug around the rounded overhang and left hand in the obvious crack.  Work your way with your left hand in the crack and generally around the right side of the rounded overhang feature.  Right of the feature has deep sidepull cracks and positive jugs.

Starting awkwardly crouched on slopers on top of the bulging white rock, climb up. Climbs better than it looks.

You don’t stop until the bear wants to stop

 Standing start with a bear hug around the rounded overhang and left hand in the obvious crack.  Work your way with your left hand in the crack and generally around the right side of the rounded overhang feature.  Right of the feature has deep sidepull cracks and positive jugs.

Slight eliminate of Unamed, Same sit start but break left on small crimps and top out directly up the high point. Avoids the high right jug and right areteReally cool movement 

Sit start with your right hand on a triangle jug and left hand on a slopey compression crack. Head straight up the two cracks compressing to the the top

Climb right up the face using good jugs and deep sidepull cracks

Climb the tall slab up to the top. As you go higher the difficulty quickly drops.

Far southwest corner of Paugnut State Forest. State Geologist report shows this area and nearby as having the best concentration of pink granitic gneiss. In particular - two enormous black and pink grantite with gneissic banding, approximately 15-22 feet tall. 

 Quick and easy access, peaceful setting, relatively clear landings, safe route back down and wide variety of high-friction, solid hold types makes this a good option for indoor climbers to get the feel for outdoor bouldering on granite without having to go all the way to New Hampshire.  

 Good warmup spot and jumping-off point before venturing deeper into the woods for the pink granite maze area

Description

Protection

Routes in Motocross Valley Dark Tower