P1: Starts out in a left facing dihedral formed by a massive flake. Climb offwidth to chimney until you are able to stand on top of flake. 5.9 90 feet.

P2. Climb straight up finger splitter to a right trending traverse under a roof. Then go straight up through two steep wide bulges in a right facing mini dihedral. The dihedral turns into a splitter upon passing the second bulge. Climb easier ground to the mini summit of Sunflower Tower. 5.11a 80 feet.

P3. Climb the last pitch of the East Face of Sunflower Tower; if you want to top out. 5.8 50 feet.

Malidea

East Face

At the Fabulous Briger Jack area...Thumbelina and Sparkling Touch are the twin towers to the far left.Next to the right is the short but sweet (and now partially fallen) Easter Island Tower.  Up and right of Easter Island is the blocky-topped Sunflower Tower.Just Right of that is the pointed Hummingbird Tower and the King Of Pain, with it's twin summits.

Walk to the base of the Sunflower tower on the east side (facing the camping sites and the road) and head to the tower's right side, just north of the north end of the summit block.  There you will see a nice thin hands crack just right of a low roof...

P1: Ascend the thin crack.  One book calls this a finger crack, but not for my size.  I nearly had my hands in it.  Go up and then up and left into a slot, past a huge loose block, where another good crack can be found inside.  belay on the fixed anchor. (5.10)

P2: Walk a few steps left (south) over a big flake and then either launch up off that flake or drop down behind it and start climbing back up.  Either way, you get to ride another great 5.10 crack for another pitch.  This starts at hands, but thins as it goes.  You will move left on a few ledges to belay on fixed anchors again.

P3: Walk over to the left and around the corner to reach the Northwest corner of the square summit cap.  Climb up and right past a few fixed pins (5.10)to get out onto a rest stance, before committing to a runout finish that is a little sandy and soft. (5.8)

Belay from fixed anchors and then rap down the East face to the ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunflower Tower