Start up the obvious dihedral on the left side of The Lair. Climb up into an immediate crux, the. Follow sustained but less difficult technical stemming to the anchors. 

The Chalice of Malice

Copperhead

Evil Grin

Crime Streak

A Rebel Just For Kicks

Feeding the Wolf

Black Mamba

Start up the obvious dihedral on the left side of The Lair though an immediate crux on perfect stone. At the fourth bolt break left onto the face and climb up into another stem crux in the shallow dihedral. Follow sustained climbing to the anchors near the top of the cliff.

Start off by climbing into an immediate dihedral crux on great rock leading to a small alcove. Rest up and then fire another techy crux to fun easier climbing above. Clip the anchors on a beautiful ledge and enjoy the view. A kneebar pad will come in handy. Stick clip the first bolt.

Perhaps one of the best lines up Middle E. Start up broken terrain left of a small pine tree to a nice ledge and the first bolt. Climb up the dihedral for another bolt until it is possible to transfer right onto the face. Follow flakes and face holds through a tricky-to-read intro crux leading to the right arête. Once on the arête, bust back left onto the face through some tough moves to the final crux. Climb though some exposure to the anchors at the top of the beautiful arête. Near perfect rock, classy moves, sculpted holds, and amazing views. Classic. Top it out!

Climb the tricky intro OW crack to gain a ledge below the beautiful streaked slab. Follow bolts up and to the left on the ever steepening ramp to a crux on excellent holds and rock. Once through the crux, follow sustained thin climbing to the anchors.

A classic wandering dacite line. Even though the crux could be considered a little lowball, the quality of rock as well as the originality and diversity of movement make up for it. Start in the opening dihedral of Copperhead and climb through an immediate boulder problem to gain the small alcove. Rest up and clip the long chain draw out left. Once recovered, transfer left into the harder-than-it-looks seam. Follow the seam to the signature crux at the two black streaks. Finish on Feeding the Wolf. 

Stick clip the first bolt. Use a shoulder length runner on the second bolt and a long or doubled quick draw on the seventh bolt.

The harder variation of the slash feature. Start as for Chalice of Malice but at the second bolt, make some difficult moves to climb into the seam to the right. Continue cruxing through the seam eventually joining up with Copperhead’s alcove and crux. Finish on Copperhead. A kneebar pad will come in handy. Stick clip the second bolt only on the start of Chalice of Malice.

This area is home to the highest density of hard lines in Upper Middle Elden, with no lines easier than 5.12-. The Lair has generally great rock quality and offers quite unique movement centered around power but is also highly technical.

As a note there is a stick clip stashed in a flake to the right of Evil Grin's belay area, just to the right of the small pine tree. This stick clip is for the community, please treat it nicely and return it to it’s storage area when you are finished with it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Lair