A long and interesting face climb with the crux three-quarters of the way to the anchors.

Get a Rope!

Lucky Cuss

Colonial Ear Wax

Mad Season

Claim Jumper

One Armed Bandit

The Papper

Green Goblin

Whiskey Dave

The Hangin' Judge

Bye Chimney

Blue Sky Mine

Necktie Party

Brewed Awakening

Bum Steer

Bobbing for Ear Snax

Public Hanging

Coyotes in the Henhouse

Chaps My Hide

Lady Luck

Dos Dose

Better Luck Next Time

This is a long, varied and popular route that weaves it's way up the featured face past a distinct crux over a bulge past the 5th bolt and finishes with moves over a small roof to a short section of slab below the anchors.

• At the crux it's possible to go left into a crack system and then cut back right - done this way it's probably 5.8 or so.

Lieback, jam, stem and undercling your way in a left-trending line past several bolts to a horizontal crack and then head up and right on devious moves to a safe but thrilling finish.

Orignally done without the first bolt which made it a little more sporty.

This seldom done route starts up a thin right-slanting crack (crux) and then works back left into the widening crack above which splits the formation.

Climbs the center of a smooth face past many small edges and a prominent horizontal crack.

Start up flakes and broken cracks, pull a small roof, and then head up a short section of slab to reach a smooth face. Above the slab work up and left on hidden slots and jugs to a finishing mantle or rock over onto a small ledge with the anchors.

Fairly long and varied, making this a recommended climb for the grade.

Lieback the crack and then head up the face above with the crux being an awkward and somewhat balancy mantle at mid-height. Finishes up easier face to the anchors.

Climb the obvious flared dihedral right of

Claim Jumper

. Combines good jams with chimney/off-width technique.

Chimney, stem, or scramble up to the 1st bolt. After clipping the 2nd bolt, pull onto the main wall and climb vertical terrain with big holds.

Route is still a little crusty with lichen, but it will clean up after a few dozen acesnts. Have fun! Also be aware of your fall zone, since there are some rocks behind and to the right that could pose a threat.

* Whiskey Dave's is a saloon in Big Bear City. Legend has it that in the 1920's, Whiskey Dave was a local bootlegger that was sent to prison after being busted by the sheriff "Lefty".  Many years later the two would see each other again on the fateful night when they both met their end.

This excellent climb takes the steep face right of

The Papper

.

Climb up past the first bolt which requires powerful moves to reach a slanting rail with the right hand. Easier climbing follows until a second crux is reached at the 4th bolt. Make crimpy moves passed the 4th bolt until better holds are reached at the 5th bolt.

Jam, chimney, stem and wiggle your way up the wide crack passing a few chockstones near the top and then continue up to belay in the notch and then circle around to rap anchors.

As an alternative you can cut right and move past the last two bolts of

Chaps My Hide

to anchors on that route which bumps up the grade to 5.9 or so.

Climbs a small ramp up to the start of the wall proper.    Climb steeply up until a move right at the 3rd bolt allows the face above to be reached.   Easily climb the face up to the anchors.

Bouldery moves up a rounded arete quickly gain better holds, and higher enjoyable patina pulling up the arete/prow lead to anchors.

Originally done by coming in from the left (5.10a), a direct start was later added to straighten out the line and bump up the difficulty.

This seldom done but quality line climbs difficult thin face past three bolts (crux) into the obvious finger/hand crack just left of

Coyotes in the Henhouse

. Three-quarters of the way up the pitch, the crack is a bit broken and another bolt will be found before the climb steepens at the top for the juggy finish.

The name comes from a local coffee house in Big Bear City - if not properly warmed up this climb may indeed be just as advertised.

A short ways left of

Claim Jumper

is this fairly long route that, like it's neighbor, weaves it's way up the face.

Boulder up positive edges at the start and then head left to the rounded arete with a distinct crux at the 5th bolt (going straight up is possible but harder).

Once past the crux, the holds get huge as the bolts become fairly spaced apart making for an exhilarating finish.

This rarely done gear route tackles the faint crack system between two bolted routes. Worth doing if you've brought along gear as it's a fun mix of crack and face climbing with absolutely no bolts. It has cleaned up rather nicely from the first ascent when it was loose, dirty and sported cobwebs.

This climbs directly up to and over the small roof just right of

Coyotes in the Henhouse

.

Climb past 3 bolts to the roof. Continue up over the roof on thin edges and don't pump out going to the anchors.

The thin and somewhat reachy start on small edges is the crux, and after the second bolt enjoyable moves on large but somewhat questionable holds lead to the finishing bulge, which is rife with excellent incuts making for a spectacular and enjoyable finish.

A classic of the area and a highly recommeded route for the grade.

Climb large, positive holds past two widely spaced bolts up and left to where the wall steepens slightly. Clip the third bolt and then power over a bulge on crimpy holds (crux) to reach better holds above. From here run up a slab to finish on a vertical face/arete and the anchors.

Enjoyable climbing for the most part with a bouldery, committing sequence at the crux.

Jam, stem and lieback your way up large flakes clipping bolts as you go. The crux is near the top and involves a somewhat wild move to get established on the upper face that leads to the anchors.

Seldom done this climbs a prominent and clean wide crack/offwidth on the south end of the rock. Can top it out and gear belay/walkoff or cut left to anchors on

Necktie Party

.

Start up an easy face past a bolt to gain a low-angled slab with a finger crack. Somewhat runout but easy moves (optional 1" gear here) up the slab end below a steepening wall. Punch up the steep face above using creative body english to reach a somewhat deceptive and crimpy crux before pulling onto a finishing slab that guards the anchors. Somewhat contrived at the crux but fun movement nonetheless.

Scrappy appearances aside, this climbs quite well and as such deserves to see a bit more traffic.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Claim Jumper Wall