This two pitch route climbs the center-right side of the Headwall, above the topout for

Slabtastic

. Combining this with

Slabtastic

makes for a 4 pitch outing.

Pitch one

(5.11b/c): this is the leftmost bolted route currently on the Headwall, climbing the center of the Headwall. It shares the same start with

L'Eroica

and then goes left through the overlap and then on the steep face above, 11 bolts, 100 feet.

Pitch two

(5.11a/b): this is a great pitch. Start with steep climbing just left of the anchor and the only 2 bolts on the pitch. Above, climb left through the small overhang and into the corner above. At the top, stay right by climbing the wide crack (#4 Camalot) with offwidth moves or laybacking.

2 bolts and gear from blue Alien to #3 or #4 Camalot, 70 feet.

Baraka

Motivation

L'Eroica

Just The Tip

Learning to Share

Unpretentious Simplicity

Climb the second pitch of

Baraka

, and after pulling the lip, head left via the crack that angles left across the face.

Climb easy face to some broken rock to the base of a steep, slightly overhanging dihedral with orange rock. Stem, undercling, and delicately climb up the dihedral to some harder moves where you trend slightly left before a slight rest before the last moves to the anchor. This is a mega pitch.

Climb the start of

Baraka

, continue up the crack feature, and make a big reach right (the crux) followed by steep moves to finish on the ledge shared with the next route.

This is a great climb. Climb the start of the Hard Project, and move left after the fifth bolt onto the steep, black wall. A reachy initial move is followed by a hard, bouldery crux that is well-protected by three closely spaced bolts. A final bolt protects the final easier but still challenging moves to the anchor. Anchor on a bulge below prominent belay ledge of

Motivation

.

This is a super classic pitch.

Easy face climbing past three bolts leads to a series of two mantles protected by bolts before reaching a good-sized ledge below the stunning, overhanging headwall proper. Move right after the second mantel (5th bolt) to a crack that cuts through the face going up and left. Use a long sling on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Plug in a #1 Camalot to protect the first moves before clipping a couple of closely spaced bolts before firing straight up on great rock with beautiful holds and movement. Finish by angling left and doing a mantel into a little alcove and on to a ledge with a two bolt anchor (there is a second two-bolt anchor to the left).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Headwall