This is a very unique route. Can I give it four stars?? Start in a dihedral hidden behind the pillar and climb up an ever changing crack system. Those looking for IC style splitters should continue on, the crack is ever changing and it is impossible to get a "flow" going. Awesome! After a small roof a downward flaring chimney comes into reach on your right, the route traverses through this flaring chimney passing three bolts and finishes with ten feet of moderate offwidth out on the other side. Those who go ripping out the bottom of the crack are affectionately referred to as "The Shart"

Logistics:

You'll need a 70m rope to lower off, otherwise you can rap with a 60m if you belay from the top. You can prevent any rope drag and have your rope running straight on the traverse by extending your clips on the traverse bolts appropriately; 48", 24", 12", then 3". Clip the bolt before the anchors super short (3") to keep your rope running smoothly past the solid chockstone.

I've climbed this route about six times now and have loved it every time, it really makes you think. Enjoy!

Total Eclipse of the Shart

Brown Eye of Sauron

Total Eclipse

Road Runner

Wiley Cryote

Happily Ever Shafter

Alternate finish variation to the Total Eclipse of the Shart if you get up there and the traverse puckers you up. Also a great way to rig a TR on Happily Ever Shafter as they share an anchor. The finish requires long slings and some creativity.

This is a wonderful, and slightly hidden line takes you into the depths of the cliff, tucked away inside a 200' mega chimney formed by a pillar/almost-tower. The third pitch ends in the shining eye near the top of the "tower." From down canyon it looks quite like the Eye of Sauron.

P1. 5.8+

Hand crack to chimney. Comfy belay ledge hidden inside the mega-chimney. Gear: .3-5", 115'

P2. 11-

Climb a beautiful wavy and continually variable 4-12" crack with thoughtful/tricky transitions between random sizes. After the mola, there's a five-foot section of hollow rock, but good jams. Hanging belay just right of a good ledge. I suppose you could move the belay left temporarily if needed, there is an anchor over there for an in-process project.  Gear: .4-12" (x2-3), 120'

3. 5.10+

Stem a wide tilted chimney until you are standing on top of the 300' tall pillar. Continue stemming until you can walk a dusty ledge and some stacked blocks to a bolted anchor on a great ledge inside the "eye." Gear: 7 bolts and .75", 80'

4. 5.10+

Head up a slabby dihedral. When the crack dies out, kick stem to the chimney and mantle past a bolt. Walk right to another dihedral crack and and an awkward mantle finish onto the tower. Gear: .4-4" and long slings. Bolted anchor (do not rap from here!) 50'

Descent:

Hop over from the tower onto the rim and walk left 20' to a bolted anchor in a nook. Rap 20' over the edge to an anchor for the current project mentioned earlier. From that anchor make 3 rappels with an 80m rope, hitting the first two belay stations. Skipping the rim anchor will very likely result in a stuck rope.

Climb a 25' chimney with no pro up to a ledge where an obvious striking crack begins. It grows steadily from .3-9".  It is a good intro to leading routes with a bit of wide, and a great opportunity to try a variety of sizes. Starts left facing and finishes right facing before ending on a ledge out left. The anchors are slightly hidden from the base. Please rap, not lower, or use long slings for top roping as to not mar the rock.

Squigling crack with tight #5s featuring calf locks and the occasional tight knee. Begin in an easy chimney with .4-.75 for pro and then work up the squiggles with several #5s. I imagine someone with smaller knees could avoid the calf locks and find the grade 5.11-, while folks with thick knees like myself find it 5.11+. Find the kneebar rest and finish on nice overhanging hands.

This wild route climbs the gap between the left side of the pillar and the main wall. It begins with a tricky downward flare, climbs a unique "chimney" between two aretes, then continues on with an ever widening chimney. A single 60m rope just barely reaches the ground.

The physical crux is just getting past the first bolt where you may want to sit on someone's shoulders to pre-clip it. The rock is a bit silty there, but is immediately perfectly clean above there. The mental crux comes at reaching the 8th bolt, which is the easiest part of the chimney... not as hard or scary as it looks. Go for it!

This route was bolted on lead with big hefty powers bolts. I've led the route again since and must say it is an absolute pleasure!

Description

Protection

Routes in Priapism Pillar