PLEASE NOTE: Jill's is difficult from the start. If you are not sure about the gear either stick clip or rappel down from the three eye bolts placed on top of the bluff and preplace you gear before attempting. This route is extremely fun, but unless you know the gear, you may be running serious risk.  

  Send the leftward leaning dihedral crack using pocketed holds on the left for feet "kinda hard to place gear", climb over the first bulge and look for gear placements, continue straight up looking for traditional placements, climb past the jug chair and reach the top for a good place to clip in.

Jill's

The Gully

Chimney

Dead Dog Walking

Crackpot

Dumb View

Dead Dog

Hip Pocket

Makanda Layback

Hot Toddy

Shotgun

No Vacancy

City Limits

Rappellers' Demise

Camel's Back

Poison Ivy Center

Drunkard's Crack

George's Direct

Poison Ivy Right

Georges Nose

Walk Up

The Bulge

Tempura Tour "Complete"

Double Barrel

Anchors Away AKA Enchained Melody

Charlie’s Traverse

Open Book Direct

My Feet Are Smiling

Easy Crack

Standing On Air

Slightly Harder Crack

Right Side Route

Barnes Overhang

Full Moon Foot Dance

Graves

Layback Hump Linkup

Step Ladder

Diagonal Direct

Easy Face

Monkey Moves

Nowhere

Shake and Bake

Im A Bitch

Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test

The Idiot

Tempura Tour "Classic"

Dim View

Tiny Dancer

Saluki Strut

Walking Gunslinger

Joe's Variation

Shake And Bake Direct

Smooth City

One of the first 5.12's in the country. Starting on good holds, climb the overhanging pocketed face. Rest on the slab about midway up, then pull your way up the next overhang. The pocket pulling was futuristic for its time. 

  The initial crux has been soloed by Adam Grosowsky, Alan Carrier, and Jim Thurmond. Also has been led by Jim Thurmond through the upper section overhang in the late 1980's

Either choose to move a picnic table to the juggy ledge to aid in starting the route, or begin directly under the Camel's Hump and traverse left into the gully. Either way, stay left of Camel's Hump and work up through the slab towards jugs.

Start at the bottom left, follow the crack up to the chimney, pull through the chimney.

Climb to the small cave feature then work through the overhung crack feature until it ends. Step up on a slabby face and work through face holds and pockets and eventually reach the anchor. 

Climb the overhanging crack system into the little cave straight above, continue above it and top out.

Climb Dim View on trad gear. Boulder through crux sequence about 20 ft to good stance and some good but small gear( .75 and blue or purple Metolius TCU). Pull through the next pumpy sequence to reach another break which will take a #1 or #2 BD Cam.   Climb through the upper crux, sling the horn if you'd like then on to the anchors.

Layback the crack that comes out of the right side of the cave feature. Follow the first crack system until a horizontal, iron-banded ledge, clip the bolt and traverse right into the other crack system. Follow the crack and place gear as you climb. NOTE! As you near the end of the crack, excellent horizontal gear placements emerge. Pull the face moved under the upper bulge of the climb and clip a bolt. Face moves up and right lead to the anchor.

 Note: this is an excellent route that leads very well with gear. Bolts are exactly where you need them.

Beginning a few feet left of Joe's. Locate the large pinch hold and crank up the face. Use a series of side pulls, edges, and underclings to reach the bulge. Reach out right, stick the pocket and work your way over the bulge using pockets and a life saving edge. Easier moves to the anchor from here.

Pull on small jugs to enter the gully crack, layback to the right and pull moves to eventually reach up left to nice horizontal edges, from there proceed to climb to the safety bolt "place a nut in the crack to the right to beef up the anchor point", then continue to the top through a rather blank section eventually meeting the last face, angle up and left eventually toping out and reaching the anchor. Fairly Committing Lead...

Beginning with a unique high stepping mantle, balance over on your feet using shallow divots. Layback, high step, and slab climb your way to the anchor. 

Climb the layback crack system through the overhang. When the crack ends, continue on small pockets while following the straightest paths. 

  Note: Not recommended without trad rehersal.

Beginning on Double Barrel, climb up and only use the left of the large hueco's that make the "double barrel". Basically continue to the top from here. This is an eliminate version of Double Barrel.

From the two stacked pockets climb through the upside down V formation and stay to the right of crackpot cave.

This popular TR goes up the huge hump in the wall. By placing a picnic table at the base of the climb, you can make the start easier. Begin at the bottom-right of the hump and climb up toward the center. Top out through vertical bucket climbing. According to the 1972 guide Sandstone Climber, "every inch of the Camels Hump has been climbed."

Pull through the short moderate boulder problem to the base of the gully crack, mantle into the gully and enjoy.

Its the obvious wide crack that leads to the top. Commonly soloed to set more difficult routes. Great route for teaching traditional placements.

Start directly below on the right side and make you way towards the chimney, plug your way through the gully crack.

Climb through the dihedral layback leftward to the base of the gully crack.

Start on George's Direct but avoid the gully/crack system. Continue stright up, pulling directly throught the "nose" on the right side of the gully/crack. Follow path of least resistance. 

  Note: not recommended without trad rehersal.

Start by laying back the flake. Continue up and pull through the weakness in the overhang and continue to a narrow "S" shaped stripe. Continue laying back and move up and right to top out.

Start on the short rightward tieback. Pull the mantel shelf about 10 feet up. Then go straight up to the top while staying 6 feet left of George's chimney.

Tempura Tour Complete is the full route that extends Tempura Tour from the belay chair above Jills, moves down Poison Ivy, and traverses the rest of the way towards George's.  

  This route offers some fun exposure and is well protected, especially at the cruxes. It is a true tour of Shelter 1.

After locating to two large pockets (the end of the double barrel), climb up following the straightest path. One of the more contiguous vertical routes on the bluff. 

  Note: gear placements are limited in the lower section, but improve as you continue higher. Not recommended without trad rehersal.

This route traverses almost the entire length of the cliff. From the anchors of "Drunkards Crack" all the way across the bluff to the anchors of "Easy Crack". The climbing isn't that difficult, there are some tricky down climbing sections as well as a couple of run out spots. It's a fun way to get some easy mileage in and to touch some holds you probably haven't touched before. I belayed the second at the anchors for Gráves and the anchors for The Chimney.

Start up Crackpot until you get to third bolt then cut left all the way to City Limits. You will pass through the cave on Graves on the way. Keep traversing until you reach the rest after City Limits crux. Finish the upper wall on City Limits. Long draw on the third bolt of crackpot eliminates any rope drag.

Begin at the base of the Makanda Layback, climb up and left to the bowling ball pocket, climb out through the Open Book gully. 

Variation: Begin by climbing through the gully of Makanda Layback after climbing through its gully, traverse left into the open book formation and go up it.

PLEASE NOTE: If unfamiliar with the route, it is recommended to stick clip the first bolt.  

  Beginning on Graves, head up and right to a 2 foot "peanut" shaped hueco. From there work left for about a move, then back right and up through a honeycomb section into the cave of Crackpot. Work out and up the face to the anchor.

Climb through the fractured crack system, eventually working you way through the pocketed upper face to the anchor.  

  Note: make sure you find the horizontal gear placement before leaving the wide upper crack.

This is a short but sweet route. Standing On Air truly begins when the featured slab of Drunkard's Crack meets the wall just left of the small wash. Climb up the face using small nubblets.

Climb up the slab to reach the wide gully at the base of the crack. Pull the tricky move and enjoy casual climbing to the anchor.

High angle step climbing. Follow the water groove

Work your way up the slab and through pocketed holds in the overhang.

This is the no-hands version of Drunkards Crack.

PLEASE NOTE: If unfamiliar with the beginning sequence, it is highly recommended to stick clip the first bolt.  

  (Pronounced GROVZ) "not recommended to be led without rehearsal" With small cave located climb through pockets, face holds, and side pulls to eventually reach the infamous cave of Graves, from there traverse left until you reach the small gully above the main crack of Jill's, plug and chug your way to the "jug chair", clip the old safety piece and top out.

This climb is similar to Drunkards in the way of how it angles to the right and is well protected. This is a great climb for those learning trad. Crux is either the crux of Makanda Layback or getting off the ground for The Gully

Another high angle staircase of a climb. Easy goes it. Good first lead.

Climb the sloping face and work your way to the anchor of Drunkard's Crack.

Climb the slabby face finding good holds along the way, then when the face goes vertical, stay right of the crack feature. This route shares anchors with Easy Crack. Note: once you have this route set up, take a fun top rope lap on Easy Crack. 

Climb over the small hump using a few ticks moves. Work up the apex of that feature and continue to the top.

Begin with the short, overhung start. Pull up and stand on iron-band ledge. Pull up and to the "pentagonal" hand pocket. Continue up the slab to a 3-finger pocket. Pull the move and follow good holds to the finish.

Climb the leftward angling crack system that juts off of the Chimney. Place cams until the angling flake feature meets the bolt line. Clip bolts from here to safely protect. 

Beginning on Graves, climb up and left about 4 feet. continue directly up and avoid Grave's horizontal hand slot. Top out through the overhang of Dim View. 

 Note, this is a top rope variation. 

Begin at the base of Makanda Layback and climb up and left of M.L. setting yourself to climb up through the blank face

Starting just to the right of the tree, climb up for about 20 feet. Then continue up and right for 30 more feet, crossing back onto Dead Dog.  Continue by climbing through iron bands and finish by Cedar tree.

This is the grand traverse that lets one venture across the Shelter 1 Bluff line. This route allows you to climb high above the grassy field below and avoids the harder sections underneath the overhang. A must for anyone desiring to explore the vertical sphere of the bluff. Absolute Classic!

PLEASE NOTE: If unfamiliar, it is recommended to stick clip the first bolt. Dim View is not as straight forward as it may seem. Also, due to the span between bolts 1 and 2, make sure your belayer is on their "A Game", to keep you off the ground if a fall were to occur.  

  Start on the small boulder in the ground for Return To Forever, from there climb up and left, when you reach the first big horizontal go straight up from there, eventually pulling through the jug chair, pick the path of least resistance to top out to Jill's anchor.

While performing a ballet of sorts, use some creative footwork to stem and smear your way up the wide gulley. Pull on good face holds to crank through the bulge and reach the top. 

Clip the bolt before pulling pulling the first bulge. Tricky is putting it mildly. Get your feet set, use the left hand side pull at the top of the seam almost directly below the first bolt. Reach up, grab the crimp with your right hand, and slap your way up the big sloper feature on the left. Climb the face and reach the bulge. Use a right handed, 2 finger pocket and perform a hard sidepull while getting your feet high to reach a decent left handed edge. Crank through and climb a short face to reach an anchor. 

Begin on Walk Up and make your way to the iron band jug at the first bolt. From here work right an up through a huge hueco to eventually reach the fourth bolt on Shotgun. Climb up to Shotgun's anchor to finish

Originally, you were to ascend the left facing crack system continuing straight above. Now, you begin just right of the original crack and climb the face.

Begin up the ramp that leads to the Chimney. Refer to photo for specifics. Climb up the face, trick side pulls, work into the large undercling feature, then out through pockets and face holds. Stay left of the Shake N Back crack system, and right of Geroges Nose.

Staying to the right of Camel's Hump, climb the smooth face and skip the larger holds on the left.

Extremely featured great quality sandstone. A truly unique climbing experience. This is the home of progressive climbing in Illinois. Come climb these historic routes and share in these classic test pieces.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff