Maybe this is the last new route at Crosier? Slabbing, stemming, and face climbing lead to a chickenhead finale.

Start on a boulder below the chimney/groove. Climb the slab past two bolts, stem the groove, climb the arete, and then crank the face climbing crux to cruiser chickenheads.

A 70m rope gets you back to the belay, a 60m should get you to easy down scrambling. Knot the ends!

Quitting Time

Conundrum (Pending FA Info)

Swingtime

Jenga

In Search of My Rose

Auspicious Sunrise

Dragon Slayer

Cam-ouflage

Batteries Not Included

Springtime

Static Undercling

Trycams

Levitation

Shorty's Dilemma

Crystal Gully

Autumn Gold

2x4 Jenga

Plates of Gold

Knob Jollies

Totem Tower

Knob Walk

Possibilities

Spare Rib

Simply Slab

Enigma (pending FA info)

Squat Tower

Delicacy

Servile Dihedral

Bring Your Brass

Mystery (pending  FA info)

Sandcastle

A Pint of Stout

The first couple moves are on dubious rock, then it is fun and sustained climbing on great rock to an incredible summit.

P1) 5.11a. Move right around the corner at the first bolt, continue up the SW corner of the formation swinging right through the crux at the 6th bolt, then follow the crack to the anchors.

To descend, rappel the route then scramble down to the

Levitation

anchors (behind and climber's right of a big rock that is down and climbers right from the base of Swingtime). Rappel 60 meters to the ground (see the photos).

P1. 5.9. Turn a bulge then climb an easy chickenhead-covered face. Continue up a smooth slab past two bolts to the anchors.

Descent: do a 30 meter rappel.

Climb stacked blocks on the NW corner of Totem Tower. Wild summit!

P1. 5.9-. Start In a left-facing dihedral, then follow cracks to a very large, sloping ledge formed by a massive wedged block. Clip a bolt, and climb to the anchors. Clip the anchors, and mantel to the summit where a bolt allows you to relax and enjoy the view.

To descend, climb back down to the anchors and lower/rappel.

In Search of My Rose is a route that requires physical effort to lead and good route reading to flash. The 5.11d difficulty may depend upon figuring out just how to do the route before sapping off of small holds or powerful moves. The route may feel 5.12 at first. On the day of the FFA, the route was eventually and successfully lead by 3 people, each with slightly different beta.

Start up the corner as for

Jenga

, and continue directly up where that route moves left to the left arete of the West face of Totem Tower. Place a #5 BD stopped or similar size in the seam and then a 2" cam (or two) up under the right side of the low point of the overlap of rock above. Clip in with a long sling on the cams, and head left though underclings and jams up to clip the first of two bolts. Power up into the crux, and decipher the sequence of patina edges and small footholds that will bring you up to and past the second bolt. Clip this high from a good stance, and then continue up larger holds on less steep rock to the horizontal crack. Step left, and clip the anchors as for

Jenga

.

The first bolt should be clip-able for short folks, but the difficulty of the moves to follow will vary depending on height, and may be VERY difficult for people in the low 5-foot range.

Auspicious Sunrise has fun slab climbing to beautiful plates.

P1. 5.10b. Diagonal left past three bolts then up and back right stepping out right onto a flake at the bottom of a V-shaped slab. Continue straight up from the bolt on plates to the anchors.

Descent: do a 35 meter rappel or 30 meter rappel to a ledge were you can scramble down.

Dragon Slayer has fun slabs with chickenheads and plates leading to a crimpy crux followed by more heads and plates.  Combining pitch one and two with a 60 meter rope works well.

Start behind a dead tree at the lowest point of rock on the east half of the face.  The last pitch goes up the left side of the buttress high above.

P1) 5.6: climb to a bolt 15 feet above the ground then up to the roof.  Climb the roof then up the gator skin slab above. Angle right past another bolt and up to the chains.

P2) 5.9: climb up and slightly right tying off chickenheads, then climb past two bolts to the anchor chains.

P3) 5.11-: continue up right past a bolt protected bulge (the crux for short people) then back left past another bolt to the left edge of the headwall. Continue up gator skin along the left edge of the headwall (the crux for most people) past three more bolts to the anchor chains.

This has fun face climbing to a knobby rib.  Some of the cam placements are a little tricky to find.

P1. 5.7. Start right of the water groove, and head up to the first bolt.  From the bolt, angle right and up past some hidden cam placements out right.  Continue up on trad gear then past two bolts on the rib to the anchor.

We came up to bolt this and realized... oops. This has fun face climbing with a spectacular view from the top.  Stays in the shade until early afternoon.

P1. 5.10b/c. Climb the face past 6 bolts to anchors. Be sure to step right at the top and check out the view.

This is a great route with sustained and interesting climbing.

P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors.  Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux.  Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.

***A 60 METER ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE SLAB WHEN RAPPELLING.  YOU NEED TO USE THE INTERMEDIATE ANCHORS, A 70 METER DOES MAKE IT.***  From the intermediate anchors, rap to the

Levitation

anchors and then to the ground.  (See photos.)

Static Undercling has tricky liebacking with a fun undercling.

P1) 5.10. Climb the crack on the left side of the slab, angle left past a tree, then go easily up and right to the dihedral.  Climb the dihedral and undercling right to the apex.  Continue up and left to the anchors.

This trad crack line has two possible starts that curve together.  Then it continues up to a trad anchor at the large ledge.  From the ledge, continue up

Totem Tower

or rappel either

Cam-ouflage

or

Spare Rib

.

P1) 5.7. Start either in the crack to the right or the flake to the left. Follow the connecting cracks to a groove and the large ledge.

This is thin slabbing with interesting pro.

P1) 5.10/5.11 height-dependent. Climb the crux thin seam up the center of the slab past a bolt, then angle up and left to the dihedral.  Traverse right along the dihedral to the first apex, clip a bolt, then go up and left past another bolt to the undercling.  Undercling right to the second apex then up and left to the anchors.

P1 5.9-) Scramble to a high first bolt, then follow fun face climbing past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with

Knob Walk

.

P1) 5.7. Follow the right and upward curving crack through a slot to the large ledge.  Continue up

Totem Tower

or rappel

Cam-ouflage

or

Spare Rib

.

Autumn Gold climbs a fun, steep face on ramps and plates.

P1. 5.8 or 5.9. Climb

Enigma

,

Mystery

, or

Conundrum

to its anchors.

P2. 5.10a/b. Angle up and left avoiding the massive hollow flake above the belay, then climb the headwall past two bolts. Continue up past two more bolts to a large alcove and the belay.

P3. 5.9+. Climb out the left side of the alcove then angle up and left to the left of the two bolt lines. Climb up past three bolts then sling a horn to protect the second and traverse right to the anchors.

P3 Variation 1. 5.9. Climb out the left side of the alcove, then up blocky terrain to bolts on the rounded arete and face on the right. Climb plates to the anchors.

P3 Variation 2. 5.8. Climb out the left side of the alcove then up the crack/groove between the other two finishes. FA: Bernard Gillett.

Descent: do three rappels. ***A 60 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED.***

"A larger version of the same thing," 2x4 Jenga starts just left of

Jenga

in the yawning offwidth crack. After an awkward start to get established in the crack, place a very large cam up inside it, and battle your way slowly through the physical crux of the route. Pass the wide section, and continue on lower angle rock to the #3/#4 Camalot fist crack above, now just left of where

Jenga

merges in from the right side. Pull up onto the leaning block near the top of the tower, and clip the bolt on the tower's arete as for

Jenga

. Finish to that route's anchors.

Just over 1/2 of the total climbing is new territory, but the unique nature of that independent bottom section and its hard-fought progress make it feel like an entirely different climb, and indeed, the part you remember when you are finished with it is.

This is a great long pitch with a little bit of everything. A nice slab followed by a big roof (which has been climbed by a 5'2" zero ape index female), beautiful plates, a crack and thin face.

P1 5.9+/10a) Climb the slab past a bolt to the middle of the large roof above. Turn the roof at a bolt, then angle up and right to the base of a large V flake. Turn the V flake on the right at a bolt, then climb beautiful plates up and left to a left-angling crack. Follow the crack to its end, turn a small overlap, and climb past 2 bolts (on Dragon Slayer) to the anchors atop the second pitch of

Dragon Slayer

.

Continue up

Dragon Slayer

or rappel.

Descent: rappel

Dragon Slayer

, or rappel to the anchors at the top of

Possibilities

and rap that to the ground. ***A SIXTY METER ROPE IS REQUIRED.***

This is a fun knob climb to the top of Squat Tower.  From the base of the face, scramble left up a gully to a point left of the water groove and below the first bolt.

P1) 5.6. Climb past a bolt, place a cam in a horizontal, then continue past four more bolts to the anchors.  ***BE SURE TO TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE WHEN LOWERING AS A 60 METER BARELY REACHES.***

This route climbs the prominent tower seen on the skyline during the approach. The name comes from the duck head-shaped block, atop the tower, when seen from the east. Pitch one is fun face and crack climbing. The second pitch ascends the tower itself with some tricky balance moves.

P1. 5.8. Climb to the bolt below the crack, and make a tricky move getting into the crack. Continue up the crack to the large ledge and a trad anchor.

P2. 5.10a. Ascend the rib at the back of the ledge past a bolt, then go up blocky terrain to the southeast corner of the tower. Move up to the prominent stance, then balance up past a bolt to the anchors. Traverse right from the anchors and ascend to the summit where a bolt allows you to relax and enjoy the view.

To descend, downclimb to the anchors and rappel to anchors on

Cam-ouflage

.

Knob Walk has fun and easy knob climbing.

P1, 5.4. Follow 7 bolts up the arete to chain anchors shared with

Shorty's Dilemma

.

Possibilities has fun crack climbing followed by nice plates.

P1 5.7)  Climb blocky terrain to the base of the crack.  Follow the crack, then climb beautiful plates to the anchors.

Descent:  30 meter rappel.

P1) 5.9. Stem up to the first bolt, then climb the knobby rib clipping bolts to the anchors.

TR variations:

1) 5.7: climb the scoop/dihedral left of Spare Rib to the top of the buttress.

2) 5.11: climb the face immediately right of Spare Rib.

3) 5.9: climb the flake 20 feet right of the start of Spare Rib, and angle left up to the anchors.

Fun slab and plate climbing.

P1 5.4) Climb the slab, then angle left along a rib to the trees. Behind the trees, move up and left on knobs then up the plated rib above to chain anchors.

Descent: do a 35 meter rappel.  (A 60 meter rope will get you to a ledge where you can scramble down.)

Enigma has fun slabbing to a neat roof move followed by an easy, fun crack.

P1. 5.9. Start up the right side of a flake leaning against the wall, then diagonal up and left past three bolts to the overhang.  Turn the overhang, and follow the left-angling crack to the bolted anchors.

Descent:  30 meter rappel.

This is a fun face climb followed by a knobby arete with the crux at the top. It can be done as one or two pitches. Climbing to the first set of anchors makes for a great 5.8- pitch.

P1. 5.8-. Follow 7 bolts up nice face climbing past a two bolt rappel anchor. Continue to a large ledge with a tree.

P2. 5.9+/10-. Climb past four bolts up the left corner of the tower above. Finish up the obvious crack/flake (gear) to chains at the top.

Descent: do a thirty meter rappel followed by a twenty meter rappel.

Delicacy has thin slabbing that keeps your attention.

P1) 5.9+: follow a seam up the right side of the slab to a horizontal. Go up the slab past a bolt, and angle right to the dihedral. Climb to the first apex, clip a bolt, then go up and right past a third bolt to the second apex.  Turn this and move left to the anchors.

Variation 5.6: an easier start that climbs the flake to the right then follows the dihedral to the first apex.

This route climbs the dihedral left of

Bring Your Brass

to the headwall behind the tree left of the

Enigma

anchors. Be careful that your rope doesn't jam in the bulge high in the dihedral. At the tree, you can cut right to the

Enigma

anchors making the route 5.5 or continue up the headwall.

P1. 5.9. Climb the easy dihedral to the large tree. Ascend the headwall cracks behind the tree then up past the last two bolts on P2 of

Autumn Gold

to anchors in the alcove.

Descent: do two rappels. ***A 60 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED.***

This has fun climbing up the right of two large dihedrals followed by plates on a low angle face.

P1. Climb up into the base of the dihedral, and follow it past

Mystery

to the wide section and a bolt on

Enigma

. Clip the bolt if desired, continue past the

Enigma

crack, and surmount the overhang on plates. Head straight up on more plates to the anchor chains, 5.9+.

The severely overhanging dihedral above the anchors will probably go 5.13?

Descent: do a 30 meter rappel.

This route ascends slabs with fun moves through a burly looking but fun roof.

P1. 5.8. Start thirty feet left of

Enigma

, head up to a bolt and then to the crack in the roof/dihedral. Surmount the roof, then up the crack to the anchors.

Descent:  30 meter rappel.

Sandcastle was named for the pile of lichen at the base of the route after we finished scrubbing it.

It is fun stemming up a water groove to the anchors. The crux is at the bulge.

A Pint of Stout is short but steep with powerful moves. You definitely want to tape and will probably want your belayer at the base of the roof.

P1. 5.11c/d. Power out the crack to chain anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Crag