A beautiful, solid, yet seldom climbed crimpfest on the upper wall of the California Crag. Delicate dime edges lead to a long horizontal reach, a thin slopy seam, and finally a nice rest at the last bolt.

Serious Leisure

Just in from L.A.

Cal. West

Senseless seizure

The Escalator

Orange County

Hurricane

Far Cry From Josh

California Clowns

Quicksand

This route has some really fun moves at the bottom through the roof/crack system, and then some technique sequences toward the top. The Swain book rates it 5.11b, but I think 5.11- is generous... Be sure to have a spotter to protect you should you fall through the lower crux (have them stand on the boulder).

This route combines some slab climbing (not my forte) with some face climbing. It is a long warm-up. Be sure to tie a knot in the belay end of your rope if using a 50m cord, especially if belaying from down the ramp!

The route starts 10 feet left of Serious Leisure and climbs the initial ring lock crack. Then veers left through a long reach and small crimps and side pulls. 

Right edge of black slab (route goes right of crack in corner). I heard the anchors are higher up than the guidebook shows.

Route just to the right of Serious Leisure. Crimpy and somewhat fragile rock.

Significantly harder than "Just in from L.A.", and I found this route to be long, somewhat overhanging, and tiring. The crux involves clipping and moving past the 4th bolt. Again, be sure to tie a stopper knot in the belay end of the rope depending on where you belay from.

There are good holds that you can use to pull through the small roof.  Rely on solid feet and nice crimps to cruise to the top.

Getting over the roof appears to be the crux, but still quite hard after that. The upper section turned out to be much chossier than first expected. The first ascent is open for anyone wanting to bag it. It was well beyond my ability.

This route starts out with some 10+/11- climbing up to a huge ledge. The crux involves the process of moving out onto the roof holds and then pulling over the roof. I suggest a heel-hook, as it is very well-protected... so GO FOR IT! The top is more 10+/11- climbing, and really more a matter of fighting off a pump.

Looking for afternoon sunshine? This little gem sports only a few routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. It is generally protected from the wind, yet in the sun making it popular in the winter months. This is a good stopping point on the way to the Stratocaster or Running Man walls. Be sure to check out "Quicksand" (5.11d) for a fun climb with some variation.

Description

Protection

Routes in California Crag