Most of this very good route is only 5.5 or so. Just left of the Sharkstooth and the All Tuckered Out, look for a pod with crystals leading up to an appealing narrow ridge. Alternatively, there is a bolted variation (5.8) on the face just left of the pod and black water streak.Climb the face to the right at 5.6 to gain the ridge. The easy 5.5 ridge is one of the best pieces of climbing at Rushmore - fun, exposed, and very unique climbing. There are chains at the top now. A 60 meter line makes it to the ground.

Second Hand Rose Arete

Mr. Critical

Lonesome Cowboy

Mothra

Mr. Critical Variation

The Pollinator

Anaphylactic Shock

Hornet's Chimney

Butterfly

Bug's Tomorrow

Beetle Juice

W.A.S.P. (center variation start)

Swarm

Vespidae

Critical Cowboy and Lonesome Cowboy are on the Honeycomb Wall, I believe.  At the South Seas sign-in, take the left trail and walk about fifty meters.  Both of these routes are on your right, to the right of Mr. Critical.  Critical Cowboy joins up with Mr. Critical for a few bolts, if you want to take this line. 

  However, with a cam, you can bring the crack into the Lonesome Cowboy route, if that isn't the intended line.  Lonesome Cowboy, is a very cool route, but can be a little confusing as to which way you should go.   

  I enjoy venturing up, then out to the left, up the obvious crack, then cutting back to the right following the crack, place a cam in the crack, and head up and right.  The bolt line doesn't make sense at times, in my opinion, but the route is a blast despite the confusion.  There is also a funky mantle up high that is unforgettable.  Very similar to the mantle on NutraSweet, but a little harder. 

  This route can be top-roped easily with two ropes at least fifty meters in length.  One 60m rope (I have heard, but not experienced) can get you down from the top, with little to spare at the bottom.  I have seen this done, but not done it personally.  You can always play it safe with two 50/60m ropes. 

This route is a classic. good moves on crimpers and crystals, and a bit balancey.

A cold weather route. You'll need every bit of friction (and skin) you can get for the thin biters that lead up to a slopey finishing crux. Very balancy. Decent rest right before crux. The insecure ending makes it real exciting to reach the anchors. Just as good as 'Butterfly' and 'Beetle Juice', if not better.

This line follows the first half dozen or so bolts of Mr. Critical, but where the route heads left, the variation continues up the slab and through the bulge out right. Here, you'll encounter committing moves followed by thin crystal crimping. Absolutely not to be missed. Finish on anchors of lower summit.

This route is a six bolt variation and direct start to the first pitch of W.A.S.P. There is a stemming/lieback crux in the shallow dihedral followed by an easier crux on the steep face just below joining the original route W.A.S.P. at the large ledge. 

  Start climbing up a short slab just right of the original start to W.A.S.P. Move right on the ledge then start clipping bolts while climbing up a left facing dihedral. At the top of the dihedral move right onto juggy wind sculpted face climbing on beautiful brown stone. At the large ledge follow W.A.S.P. to the top of the first pitch to finish. 

  Shorter climbers might find this route harder than 5.10.

This route is great for those getting into 5.11 at rushmore. Crux is about 30 feet up, and its a stinger.

Great squeezing with airy stances. Not as dirty as it appears below.  

  Follow the chimney up to the large roof. Squeeze out and up past the roof, enjoying the open air below. Follow the left arete to anchors at the summit.  

  Two single rope rappels or one double rope rappel

This route located on the flatest portion on the left side of the Iron Face. Climb up a short right facing corner then move right onto a left angling brown streak. Underclinging and liebacking past the first couple of bolts is the crux but the climbing above shuts down many stong climbers. Super unique for the area.

Fairly short and well-protected but challenging face climb. Start up the sparsely-featured awkward face, going left at first and then angling back right up a faint seam. The route begins to steepen and  reaches the quite physical crux move-- a smearing rock on to pull a lip and move on to a lower-angle dark grayish slab with widely-spaced but fairly positive holds. A bit dirty. Doesn't seem to see a ton of traffic. Felt the lower 2/3rds of this route was pretty full value at the 5.10 grade.

The opening moves lead to an encounter with the goat's head horn. This route follows the left side of the arete and features great edges, mutated crystals and some really wild wind sculpted holds. The crux is near the top but there tends to be cruxes at all ten bolts. No one move wonder! A beautiful route... not recommended for Crimp-Pansies.

This is a nice solid 5.9 which is consistent and fun.  The Bottom third is blocky/oververtical with big holds.  The middle gets thin with nice little crimps.  When in doubt, (you'll know it when you get there)go left even though there are temptations to the right.  The distinct crux is at about halfway.          The cracks at the bottom are protectable with nuts or small cams and is one variation to W.A.S.P.  The bolted route "pollinator" about 8 feet right of the crack also appears to be an excellent climb.        The flake I'm describing is at the edge of the shadow in the beta photo and is apparently the center version of the original start to W.A.S.P.

This route is located between Anaphylactic Shock and Beatle Juice.  It is best approached via the gully next to Beatle Juice.  It is a well protected, fun, and exciting climb with two 5.12ish cruxes and lots of 5.11 in between.  Start on the steep wind sculpted face, then climb up the blunt arête to the little roof, pull the roof and onto the anchors. Rack up about 17 draws, use a 60m rope, and enjoy.

Start on the flake and climb the arete. The crux is between the first and second bolt.

This rock and Shipyard Rock are the two large formations in the South Seas area.  Hornets' Nest has many fine routes on it, many of which are very difficult.  The average rating is probably around 5.11, but routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13 on its various faces.  Mr. Critical, Second Hand Rose, and WASP are all very fun routes.  Hornets' Nest is made up mostly of routes requiring only quickdraws, but a few routes require gear as well.  To descend, pick one of many fixed anchor rappels, and bring two ropes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Hornets Nest