Thin, black, closed, right leading corner at the base of the Grade II Wall. Back in the 1980’s this was the best looking, highest quality, undone 1st pitch on the wall. It may be R now with the smallest cams. It would have cool liebacking, underclinging and even lip pinching if it also had a line of glue-in, chem studs, i.

Genius of Horror

Avalanche

Belladonna

Right Side of the Mitten and The Boxer

Four Dead Aliens- to- Left Side of the Mitten

Ego Tripper

Royal Edge

This is the major corner system left of a big blank section of wall. Start about 50 feet left of the obvious right facing flake corner at the base. A short face climbing section with a bolt leads to an easy crack, which takes you to the ledge. Climb through the limestone band just right of two large bushes, and up a right-facing corner. Belay at a block covered ledge. Easier climbing up cracks and ledges leads to the summit

Center of Grade II Wall. The key 3rd pitch is in a black, splitter, water groove. Full Trad, with run outs on all pitches. 1st pitch warms up the trad with a ‘easy’ slab w 1 point of protection. 2nd pitch is a tricky corner. You even have difficulty making an anchor. Crux has good pro, with cams for the overhanging start, but the pro and holds run out as the angle eases.

Climb any number of crack/face options to reach the limestone band, or traverse in from the left. Lieback up a right-facing corner to the second ledge and a bolted belay. The next pitch moves right and then attacks the roof above, the routes crux.

This is a good and proud route. It would be excellent practice for Moab type tower climbing, with hand crack, nice squeeze chimney and face climbing.

Link up of Four Dead Aliens and the Left Side of the Mitten, avoids the 1st and most unpleasant of 2 off-widths on Left Side of Mitten, by a 1 star tips crack, left facing corner and rattly escape. Then an off width, and the "thumb". Finish with an old bolted face. Big Time adventure for the grade, with burl, sand, and runout.

This route is closed to climbing due to climbing due to raptor nesting until July 31st, 2021, or until further notice. Thank you for your cooperation!!! - CWCA 04/2021

Cool sandstone laybackey crack. Traditionally done as 3 pitches I'm told, but can be easily done in 2 with a longer rope. Solid trees and ledges for belay.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Grade II Wall