Start sitting, then move up and right through the scoop.

Dionysian Ecstasy

Proper English

Wave Hugging

The Doubloon Sit

Unknown/The South

The Doubloon

On the West side of the Schoolhouse Boulder lies this left to right traverse. It looks easy, but it's a little tricky! Pick the path of least resistance through beautiful, rounded cracks, stay the course when the bottom drops out, make a big reach (crux), and round the corner.

Wave Hugging is funky and fun. There is no swinging wildly on this one as the rock behind you will keep you honest. Sit start with a high right heel and two small but good crimps. Move up through more crimps to a pretty good hold on the lip.

This variant of

The Doubloon

starts on a positive, slightly gaston, left-facing crimp and the flat-ish rail that is the start foot for the stand start. From here, two moves on awkward feet gain you the start hold of

The Doubloon

. Finish as such.

Start matched on a slopey crimp rail, and head straight up, with an interesting topout.

It is best to climb this in the fall to spring before the tree starts sprouting leaves.

I gave it the name The South, because the first hold reminded me of The South. Let me know the FA info if you have it.

Start on two crimps, and make some dynamic moves through okay ledges up to the lip. Then throw a high heel, and pull a difficult mantel to bomber jugs. Stopping at the lip would bump this down to around V3, so top out for full credit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Schoolyard Area