The crux is above the third bolt.  Scary because another bolt seems appropriate.

Tiny Dancer

Plausible Denial

Blowback

(04)

Casper (a.k.a.)

Friend of the Devil

MI6 (a.k.a.)

Day of the Jackel

Class Act

Venetian Tailor

Corporate Ladder

Transylvanian Phlebotomist

Language Barrier

Last Call for Alcohol

Rhumba of the Toads

(05)

Optional Disorientation

Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau

Mandatory Orientation

Ride the Lightning

Boulder off the ground (5.10) and then continue up on easier but technical climbing.

This climb is the easiest route on the wall.  A crux is found about 3/4 of the way up the route.

Progressively builds to a short crimper crux. Fun if you don't mind a bit of sharpness. I cant find any info on the name/grade/fa, but the crux felt in the v6-7 range. I could be talked into 12d, but it took me more effort then ride so 13-?

Follows a thin vertical crack system up slabby terrain.

Crux is above the first bolt.  Fun movement with low pulling.

Easy climbing gains the first bolt, make a few moves into the crack, climbing slightly left to get the second bolt. Enter the scoop from the left where delicate moves take you to bolt 4 and the beginning of the crux. Powerful and technical moves take you to the chains.

Easy climbing to a high first bolt, continue up and make the crux moves above the second bolt then finish at the anchors.  This is perhaps the easiest route at the main Spook Canyon Wall.

Technical face climbing with the crux near the top of the route.

Technical movement and some note easy to read sequences make this a fun little climb.

Easy climbing down low to high first bolt (actually a thread-through chain). Difficulty increases as you move upward. Crux is moving past and right of the last bolt to gain the anchors.

An easy start to get on the wall leads to a low first and second bolt.  At the second bolt the holds get worse and the crux is encountered.  Figure out which holds to use and traverse slightly left to the spaced third bolt.  From the third bolt head up on mostly good holds to the distant 4th bolt.  From here the climbing gets more difficult with another short boulder problem, but is well protected to the anchors.

A fun moderate climb with rests.  The crux is above the third bolt.

Work through the left-arching undercling to join up with Mandatory Orientation.

Really the only warm up on the wall if you want to do a route otherwise you have to boulder. A slabby start leads to a slightly overhung face with good holds running thin towards the top. Start is runout but quite easy. 

  Ramble up the easy slab to a very high first bolt. Move through some leftfacing laybacks to a sinker almost too good to be true right hand pocket and the second bolt. Use some underclings to move up into some more left facing blocky holds and the 3rd bolt. Finish straight up or out to the right, straight up is pretty thin better holds out right.

A moderate start up slightly hollow rock leads to a high first bolt with a bulge above.  Good holds allow clipping of the second bolt from below, then enter the crux passing the second bolt.  You may find yourself slightly to the right of the bolt line to utilize some good pocket sidepulls.  After this commit to traversing left thru some bad holds and some hard matches to obtain jugs to clip the third bolt.  After this one more tricky move leads to a good crack system leading to the anchors.   

  The anchors at this time are just 2 bolt hangers so I clipped the last bolt on "Last Call for Alcohol" and finished to those anchors.  This adds a few more feet of climbing but no difficulty. 

  This was originally graded 11d, mentioned as 12ish in another guide.  It certainly felt quite hard for 11d.  There is a large rock scar left of the second bolt that my have used to have been some holds possibly explaining the difference in difficulty.

There are several fun 5.9 boulder moves off the ground.  Continue up and right to the anchor.

Work up the scooped black streak. Hard moves separated by stemming. Stays on you till the end.

Climb the left-facing corner to a ledge. Then head up the arete on the right to bolted anchors.   Crux is exiting small roof and getting to ledge; smearing and stemming helps.

Stand V8: Work up the right facing off-set till you can reach out left to a good edge. Bring the right up to a sloping dish and jump for the pointed jug in the crack, or match the edge and cross left up to a crimp gaston on the side of the sloping dish, then with your right foot high pull up to the pointed jug. Continue up the crack till you can traverse right and work your way down. 

  Meine Gummi Frau V10: Start almost laying down on some slopers on the back wall. Move out to a rail that slants up and left, then out left to a pocket. Set your feet and make a long move to a hueco, pretty difficult. Heal hook by your left hand and reach out to the off-set. Plant your feet and fall into the off-set with your right, crux. Though the jump move is still quite difficult and one would expect to come off there at least once after getting through the lower bit.

Climb the obvious vertical crack, to a ledge. Then head up the blunt arete.

Progressively more difficult climbing through tthe first half broken up by jug pockets. Big moves to an OK rest then a final boulder problem to the anchors. 

  Start up a low angle slab to the left of the bolt line. Reach out and clip the first bolt then move up into some slots and a pinch on a block, clip bolt 2. Thin face climbing leads to the 3rd clip. Move up on some very small holds and very technical moves leads to a hard stand up and stab for the next good 2 finger pocket and the 4th clip, or an all out jump. Some big moves up on sidepulls and underclings takes one to the 5th clip and a rest. Move to the right with some big moves on positive holds and the 6th bolt. A final commiting big move takes one up to the anchors. 

  This seemed as hard as or harder than Sinister Dane 5.13b to me, so if Sinister Dane is 5.13b then so is this. Crux sequence might be V7 preceded with a bit of difficult climbing and followed by some big moves to a poor rest to some more difficult climbing.

This is the main wall, about 40-50 feet tall in the area where the routes are. To the left there is a low cave with several boulder problems. 

  Boulder problems to the left of the routes in the cave:   B1 I'm leaving some room open for other problems, there are a few over here   B2   B3   B4   B5 Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8/V10   B6 ? Hard   B7 Right to left traverse V3   B8   B9

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spook Main Wall