Just right of

Gravitational Humiliation

and left of

Boilermaker

is this difficult route, with distinctive gold-colored hangers, that is one of only two 5.13 routes on the wall.

A bouldery start gains a high first bolt above which interesting and somewhat sustained climbing (5.11) past three more bolts reach the 5th and final bolt. Above, the difficulty increases significantly as you encounter the bouldery crux which guards the topout to the belay ledge.

Originally done in the 1980's as a 5.11 toprope problem that ended below the top at an apparently "blank" section of rock, this was later done on TR with all of the moves being done (5.13c ?) but not linked. Sometime later an unknown individual enhanced holds at the top making this just a bit easier; for the record the first lead was not done by the mystery chipper. Sadly, despite the difficulty of this route, this could have been a testpiece were it left unaltered.

Doug's Dilemma

Straight, No Chaser

Old Fashioned

Under Pressure

Conscious Projection

Jim Beam Arete

Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster

Segments in Space

Particle Acceleration

Pressure Drop

Gravitational Humiliation

Easy Crack

Boilermaker

Suspended Animation

Ripples in Time

Known also as "The Beachball Problem", this route is located two routes left of

Boilermaker

and immediately right of

Barfly

.

Steep and bouldery moves along the first two bolts get one past a horizontal and onto a section of balancy face requiring high steps and delicate movement. Work your way up along a seam and then after clipping the third bolt (reachy for shorter people) work your way left towards the arete on large but sloping holds to hit the fourth bolt. The crux for many is moving off "the beachball", a huge but very sloping hold just past the last bolt.

A bit more rounded and sloping in nature than most climbs here, this route is perhaps best done in cooler weather to ensure sucess.

Lieback a large flake and then reach out left making thin, crimpy moves (crux) past two bolts to reach a small ledge. From here climb the steep, thin crack above (5.11), taking care not to fill your fingerlocks with gear. The climbs ends at a stance with a 2 bolt anchor/rap.

This pumpy yet delicate link up climbs past the first three bolts of Jim Beam Arete and cuts right to finish with the last three bolts of Pressure Drop.

A recommended route for the grade with excellent movement throughout it's length.

*

Old Fashioned, what's that?

Despite appearances this technical route is actually quite good and climbs like an extended boulder problem with lots of movement for it's short length.

Scramble up to the starting ledge, clip the 1st bolt and head up utilizing the twin offset seams. Higher when the seams end an engaging sequence of small edges and technical footwork works left then back right to gain gradually better holds and the anchors.

Not your typical Hungover Wall as it's only vertical and has mostly thin holds, but a welcome change of pace nonetheless.

Boulder up to a high first bolt (1/2") where you'll quickly confront the crux which can be done a couple of ways depending upon your height and/or flexibility. Taller climbers may opt to deadpoint for the sloping horizontal whereas shorter climbers will need to employ a crafty heel hook/crimp combo to succeed.

Past the crux you'll find the climbing to be rewarding as you stem and lieback up past horizontals, some better than others, to a reachy move past the fourth bolt and another crux (5.11) past the 5th bolt. The last moves are easier and lead to anchors on a small ledge.

This is a climb you'll either love or hate as it comes down to sticking the lower crux, although it's possible to get all the way to the top and pitch off the upper crux.

The crux comes early on this passing the first bolt and then it stays interesting most of the way with climbing past sloping horizontals and rounded holds. After the last bolt merge left and finish in the crack.

Originally done as a TR problem this was later bolted and made into a sport climb as were a number of other TR's at the Hungover Wall.

This fun link up climbs the lower portion of Ripples in Time, avoiding the lower crux of Segments in Space, and then joins that route midway to finish with it's upper crux.

* About the name:

​

https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/259265/pan-galactic-gargle-blaster/

​​​

Preclip the high first bolt and then move somewhat left of it to get started. At the horizontal traverse right to a second bolt and the crux moves over a bulge to reach a sloping horizontal. Continue up the bulging face passing numerous horizontals to a final tricky crux passing the last bolt.

This route is an excellent introduction to the climbing at the Hungover Wall and serves as a good warm-up for the harder lines on the wall.

A local classic that starts by climbing a bouldery face past a bolt to a ledge. Wander upwards past two more bolts until just below a small overhang/overlap. The moves past the next bolt are excellent and involve a long reach/dyno to a distant edge and then moving up to a delicate and somewhat heady stand-up move with holds that seem to face the wrong way. The final moves to the top are enjoyable and largely uneventful.

Originally this route shared the start with Suspended Animation, but now features a two bolt independent start slightly left that takes you directly up to the third bolt.

Scramble up to a ledge and the first bolt and then move up passing horizontals along the arete with good holds when you need.. Higher interesting balance moves up sloping edges and incut plates culminate in a cruxy topout as you palm the rounded top. Good movement on this despite it being so short.

* Bonus Start

- Start from the ground and climb past a wide crack, which adds more moves and variety to the route.

Stem off a boulder to start (direct is 5.10) and climb the offset crack taking advantage of the plentiful face holds. About three-quarters of the way up interesting moves past a bulge gain a ledge and a straightforward finger/hand crack leads to the anchors.

Begin just left of

Straight, No Chaser

and boulder up to a small stance with a bolt. Cruxy face moves past the bolt lead into a steep hand crack which slices it's way up the wall to a bolted anchor at the top.

This is another fun crack line to do on this wall and it sees little traffic as most climbers are here for the sport routes. A logical choice after doing

More Punk than Funk

.

The name

Boilermaker

is that of a drink that combines whiskey and beer.

Start just left of

Conscious Projection

and boulder up past two bolts (5.10+) to a ledge and then clip a bolt at the base of a bulging wall. Move past the bolt and pull onto the bulge encountering continuous and sometimes powerful climbing (5.11) on small crimps and horizontals to a tricky crux move at the 4th bolt. One last thin section is found before a hand crack that ends right below the anchors.

Great climbing that requires mostly crimping and not as much in the way of slopers, which is a nice change of pace.

Climb

Easy Crack

for about 20' and move left along a flake when possible and continue up the faint black streak using horizontals and the occasional pocket. Higher, when you reach another flake move back left along a seam to join Segments above it's last bolt and finish per that route

The rating assumes you stay on the wall left of the crack and don't stem or jam - doing so will reduce the difficulty.

Description

Protection

Routes in Hungover Wall - Right Side