Insanely hard deadpoints to very small incut holds.  This is a brilliant line up a stellar boulder.  Start with your left hand on a decent pinch and a nasty little hold for your right. Kudos to anyone who can pull the first two moves.

Black Lung

Big Boy

Sun in My Eye Traverse

Chit

Stumblebum Traverse Variation

Marble Cake

Sun in My Eyes

Stand Up

Stumble Pig

Resident Evil

Two Finger Variation

“Easy Mantle”

Suck That

Super Sloper

Slap Me Silly

Phony Baloney

Joe Cool

Warm Me Up, Scotty

Freak

Gettin' Warmer

North Arete

Phony Baloney Traverse

Scary Spice

Shagadellic

Get Shorty

Stumblebum Traverse

Fig Fart

SPAM Arete

Snake Bite

Huge Mamma

Goatee Traverse

SPAM

Goat Cheese

Goat Milk

Scary

Sit start with hands on shelf, and in the words of the Joe’s Valley guidebook, “easy mantle”. Fall zone over backbreaking rocks. Don’t fall.

Mega classic.

Starts right of Freak on good jug.  Long cross left to a finger bucket, then move to pocket near the lip.  Move right and mantle.

Start as for Sun in My Eye on the obvious rail but traverse out right to the arete.  Move up the arete on sharp but positive holds and watch your back on the rock behind you.  Soft at V6.

Stand start.  Make a big move with not the best feet.  I threw up and right to a nice hold.  V0 moves to the top from here.

Easier variation to the full Stumblebum Traverse. Start on the middle arete and head right on good holds to a slightly sandy top out.

One move wonder that feels like it's going to rip your arm out of its socket. Start on the sidepull and stem your feet out if you can, then lurch off the ground and deadpoint to the jug.

One move wonder. Sit down Start on sloping ledge. Go up and left to a jug.

This is pretty much a variation on Resident Evil.  Start on the big horizontal jug/crack and make the big deadpoint moves up to the top.

Sit start on the arete.  Instead of heading R on Stumble Bum Traverse, head straight up and connect into Fig Fart.  Crux right at the start.

One of the greats at Area 51, and not to be missed if you're climbing at this level.

Start on the small holds to the right of Black Lung and bump right into the horizontal crack (the big jug on the far right side of the crack is off apparently, and knocks the grade down a bit if you care about that sort of thing).  Make a big move up to the sharp crimps above and then make a pretty desperate move to the 'starfish' at the top.

The crux for me was either campusing or using a funky heel hook to match in the crack, although the deadpoints at the top are troublesome for others.

Same start as Big Boy.  Make long move to two finger pocket with right hand, then climb straight up.

A fun line up the back side of the Area 51 boulder.  Start on two sidepull/undercling crimps and move up the slopers on the arete and top out on the pockets and huecos.  Descend down to the left.

Climbs up orange face between Resident evil and the back side of the main boulder.

Start low on sloper and move up the corner avoiding the ledge.  V4 if you go to the ledge.

Begin near the northhwest corner of the Cake Boulder (the first boulder you see when approaching New Joe's from the old oil well parking lot).  Make difficult moves off the ground into good huecos.  Easy climbing gets you up off the ground to a cryptic but moderate topout.  Classic.

A nice juggy warmup.  Climb jugs up the bulging face to an easy topout.

Start low on a good side-pull and climb straight out the roof.

Same sit down start as

Warm Me Up, Scotty

, then move up and right instead of straight up.

This problem is quite good, but overshadowed by its neighbors. Strangely its not mentioned in the Caldiero guidebook either.

Traverse left up the sloping arete and finish on Big Boy.

Good movement on fun holds - jugs, crimps, slopers, pinches, dishes, heel hooks, side pulls, everything!

Same start as Phony Baloney, but move right staying below the ledge.  Get to side pull(crack) and mantle.  Very long and powerfull, but a must try.

Start on a crimp rail in the middle of face, just down and left of the Scary lieback feature. Move left to a side pull crimp, jump straight up to a flat jug in the middle of the face, go straight up on good crimps and top out on the apex.

Traverse crack system from right to left on steep face.

Basically, this problem starts on a good hold, immediately transitions to an uncomfortable/thrutchy mantle topout, and then, just as suddenly, is over. Do it if you must do every problem (I empathize). Maybe it will make you slightly better at topping out.

Begin as for "Joe Cool" on a blocky hold and begin traversing right.  Many options exist so look high and low if the sequence feels hard for V5.  Turn the corner and continue on huge jugs, underclings, and slopers and exit up and right above a small boulder.

A variation to this problem (V2) begins on the arete and traverses only the juggy part of this problem.  The Caldiero guidebook has caused confusion about the sequence and rating of this problem as he describes this easier variation as the full "V5".  Either way, the problem is a lot of fun so get on it!

In between Joe Cool and Stumble Bum traverse- SDS on edge and side pull, move up to sloping dish and edges to good flakes at jugs begin treading right to the top.

Sit start on same flat hold as SPAM.  Head up arete.  When SPAM branches right to the sloper and crimps, continue straight up arete on good holds to a balancey but easy top out

AKA: Snake Mouth

Start on two sidepull/undercling crimps (same start as Super Sloper) but go up and right to big pockets.

Fun problem with a lower crux, and relatively easy climbing for the high top out.

Start seated at the right end of the boulder. Travese the jugs left and top out Goat Cheese. The finish can be a little dynamic.

(On boulder just to the right of the main Area 51 boulder as you come into Area 51 from main trail)Start matched on an edge about face height and move straight up to slopers and and out right for a frightening topout. Be careful not to pop off into the tree behind you as you top out!

Sit start on jugs, awkward first crux move and then V0 to the easy topout.

Squat start on L hand sidepull and R hand bad crimp.  Work up the horizontal jugs to an easy mantle.  The crux is really just the bad feet.  Linking Goatee Traverse into this finish really makes for a much better problem; Goat Milk is essentially a one move wonder.

"Climb the left-facing, hollow-sounding flake" on the north side of the Evil Boulder.  Tall and a bit scary.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Area 51