Fun moves between good rests. Reachy crux move halfway up or so. A great route that is well worth doing. The Alcove stays shady slightly longer than almost anywhere else at the Quarry.

Short Shot

Yellow Fever

Character Assassination

Toothless Tweaker

Shwazzle Dazzle

Relatively moderate but pumpy climbing leads to a sloping ledge at about 1/3. From there you pass the first crux of the route, surmounting the small roof by pulling on some small crimps in a crack that angles up and left.

After that the climbing remains fairly sustained and technical, working your way up on the right of the drill flute, using a variety of interesting sidepulls, liebacks, and compression. As you near the first anchors staying to the left is easier.

Climbing to the first anchors is 11d, quite fun, and relatively solid. Worth doing.

The full route continues up to a second set of anchors at 12a, though aside from accumulated fatigue it doesn't seem any harder than the bottom. It is generally dirty, the rock is a bit chossy, but the movement is good. You climb up past a perma-draw, pulling lightly on the scary looking jug, before cranking a couple tough moves over the bulge. From there some delicate slab climbing zigzags up before the final stretch where you climb directly up the drill flute which is neat. L-P-L if you go to the top.

An awkward mantle past the first bolt gains entry into the tiered corner system where jamming skills are a plus. The so-so climbing in the middle of the route is redeemed by the wild and suprisingly exposed feeling crux at the last bolt.

The extension to this is called Hysteria (5.12d) 15 bolts to anchors (115').

Step off the ground (avoiding a loose jug) and climb over a steep, orange roof at the second bolt. Shorter climbers may find a kneebar here to make the roof a little easier. From there climb up easier ground and through a short band of low angle choss.

The angle then kicks back again as you climb some big holds up moderate ground before the climbing gets technical and pumpy near the top.

2-3 stars, worth doing.

The extension "Tweaker" continues past 8 more bolts at 13b.

This route is just to the right of

Rocky

which is the last route in the Taboo Area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (n) The Alcove