This was described as 10a R-rated in the guide book, so I had been avoiding it, but found it to be actually pretty good, solid rock and good pro. It is nothing special, more like a face climb protected by a crack. Most of which is 5.9, but a few thin finger lock moves make it 10a.

Climbing on Rainbows

Under Duress

Painted Black

F'ing 206'ers Mothers

HIV Positive

Welcome To Vantage

Duress

Easy Off

Spinning Mars

The Climb Left Behind

In Too Deep

Party in Your Pants

Ride 'em Cowboy

Cattle Prod

Shrinking Ball Disease

Blue Autumn

Puppies in the Blender

M.F 206'ers

VD Test

Pats Crack

The Manxome Foe

Bob Dylan

Snooze Ya Lose

Twinklebosch

Little Big Man

A Midsummer Night's Dream

Bob Dylan is one of two adjacent cracks on the far left of the Twin Cracks section of the Sunshine Wall.  The guidebook we have gives it a 5.10b rating but that seemed way generous...feels easier than Air Guitar.  Start in a thin hands crack (#.75-1 Camalots) and traverse slightly left near the top.  Gear anchor at the top.  Watch for slightly flakey rock at the top (helmet esp. for belayer).

MWS can be broken up into two main sections:

1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.

2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.

The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.

Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.

If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.

Under Duress is the first pitch up to the platform and is a 5.8.

The Yoder description lured me into trying this. He calls this " a potential area classic". I am always up for an adventure, and this was a wild adventure, good thing there was no belayer or anyone below because every hold I tried came off in my hands. The edge of the crack crumbled off when I attempted to finger lock or hand jam.I used both cracks most of the way up, and I guess Bill and Paul used the right side crack which was less loose but still very dirty. On a positive note, there was no pidgin shit because it was too thin.

The route description says climb the thin crack on the right side, switch 2/3 the way up. I did that and also the left side crack all the way up. There was much dirt streaming out and toaster oven size blocks coming off.

Still might be an area classic some day.

I did some more cleaning on this 11/15/17. I am sad to say that it is not much better, keeps exfoliating.

STAY AWAY FOR NOW, STILL LOOSE AND DIRTY

Start on top of the ledge to the left of Ride 'em Cowboy and climb the first obvious, large crack system.

Loose face holds alleviate the need for real offwidth technique, but make sure one side of your harness is free of gear and be prepared to get squeezed. Your belayer better be wearing a helmet.

This is one of two routes (other being Bob Dylan, 5.10-) on the left side of the Twin Cracks section of the Sunshine Wall.  Crack goes from hands size down ("wavy" rock, easy climbing) to tips at the top (crux).  Gear anchor.

This route starts at the top of "Under Duress" and is the one on the right.

This is the sport route just right of

Party in Your Pants

.  Begin Easy Off up some very thin-looking moves to get established on the face, and then work your way to the top through a series of interesting moves.  Pay attention!  Unlike many climbs at Vantage, this one requires some thought regarding body position and balance, and offers good climbing all the way to the anchor.

This is the wavy finger crack to the left of Party in your Pants. This is an excellent climb that protects better than it looks. Solid finger locks and tricky stems all the way to the top.

The hangers were removed as of April 2010, so you need to move left across a column which skips the hardest move of the climb if you traverse low.

I think the stemming thin crack above is great, and the 2 bolt start not so great. The 2 bolts are what remains of a route called Positive Vibrations that got toppled over.The first 2 bolts are on the west side of the remaining broken column.

A nice, easy off-width line.  More specifically, short burts of OW moves are nicely interrupted by great stem rests.  Bolted anchor just below the rim.

Party in your Pants ascends a pair of parallel crack systems just left of Easy Off. Stem and jam your way up the steep corners and past a series of wavy bulges, which provide the crux moves. Fairly continuous 5.8 climbing.

A fun climb up the bolted arete (basically the first climb you come to on the approach). The climbing is similar to the routes on at the Feathers area, except the holds seem much less likely to fall off when you pull on them.

Another rainy day adventure that left me covered in mud. This was perhaps the dirtiest most loose climb I have tried on the sunshine wall. But I did not give up on it, and I think it climbs really well, it just needs some more cleaning.

This route is pretty clean now, expect some loose face holds since it is never climbed.

The crux of this one hits right off the ground and its also the section that protects the poorest.  The first satisfying placement is about 5 feet below the bolt which itself is not really in the best location as a bomber placement can be found 8 inches above it (but of course I clipped it).  Once you clip the bolt, the climbing eases (& seriousness decreases) to typical Sunshine Wall crack climbing (i.e. stemming).  Belay off the bolted anchors atop the sport route to the right.

For those that like off-width, this fun route is a must-do with an obvious crux at the bulge up high.

This is a great crack with a few loose bits. I cleaned some large rocks out of it in 2012, cleaner now. Like many cracks at Vantage, it has undulations that would take hexes well. It does not have the usual many face holds so the crack is quite sustained with many creative positions to find rests.

Climb to pedestal then climb hand crack to cliff top.

one of the only worthwhile cracks on this little face.

Climb thin crack which widens up to 3.5".

This route starts at the top of "Under Duress" and is the one on the left.

A fun and interesting face climb. There used to be an anchor but often the hangers are missing so you may need to belay on top with some gear and walk off.

Decent quality fingercrack that runs parallel to Manxome Foe. Stays pretty consistent at the size and forces you to pull on a few face holds in parts when the crack is too thin. Watch for loose footholds.

One 35m rap from the chains (Manxome Foe) will get you to the ground.

Another old route never climbed. I am guessing the 10c rating is for the start, it says in the book a thin crack, more like thin seam and big moves without pro to arete holds. I also tried using the Snooze holds and the Cattle prod crack to start.

The rest of the route is OW but many face holds give you a rest, I did a few knee jams and chicken wings, but most of it is more like fists.

I cleaned a lot of loose rock off this 1/21/2018.

May not be popular because of the chossy crack start, but a fun climb non the less.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (e) Near End (aka Twin Cracks Area)