Climb through the inital layback flake and face moves to the first of three roofs.  The first 11a roof prepares you for the very awkward 11c second roof.  Obvious moves to the right lead to the final 9+ roof.  This route is quite unique to the Tower.

Dedicated To The Game

Little Creatures

Not-so Pro

Warm Up Too

One Diet Coke for Fat Juice

Warm Up

Lakota

Little Fingers

Tintin Does Doughnuts

Flight 714

Tiny’s New Shoes

Down and Out

By far, my FAVORITE route on the Buttress.  I remember Carl telling me how much work it was bagging the first ascent.  The route actually gets it's name for the pesky wasps that liked to hang out.  For that reason, it might be a wise idea to rap the route first before you attempt the lead.

Start on a large, somewhat detached block climbing the large crack and face to it's top.  Step left onto the main wall and work your way up to a small roof.  A CLASSIC move will allow you to pull the roof and lead you up to a hands down rest.  For me, the crux is negotiating the face back right to the corner.  A two bolt anchor awaits.

Another warm-up or cool-down route that just might tickle your fancy.  The crux move is probably keeping your head moving through the unprotected face... although there is a somewhat awkward and grungy bulge that will make you think.

A tough for what the book calls 5.6 move gets you off the ground.  Followed by straightforward crack and face work.  There is a bit of loose rock up top, including a big flake that looks appealing to access the anchors.  A good route if you have no time after arriving late, or after you are done with something bigger.

One Diet Coke starts up very steep rock to the left of Little Creatures.  The first bolt is 15ft up, but the climbing is juggy and you could place a small cam. As the angle decreases slightly, the holds get smaller with the crux at the last bolt. There is a short loose section near the crux at the top.

It is probably best to rap off the 2 bolt anchor, since it is right above a sharp edge.

A fun little crack with lots of pretty lichen just off route.  Nice shade in AM.  Quick to get to.

This is probably the most popular route on the buttress.  A GREAT test of skill.  It amazes me that some have such an easy time with the moves... and other VERY GOOD CLIMBERS are stumped at the second bolt.  ENJOY!

Little Fingers starts up a steep finger crack to a crux bulge.  Once you pull through the bulge on thin hands, you follow an easier but fun thin hands crack in a left facing dihedral. A two bolt anchor awaits you on a ledge after ~90ft.

A VERY NICE warm up route for the difficult lines to your right.  No real crux, as such.  Just several moves of splendid face climbing.

A very crimpy route with LONG reaches.  The crux comes after you've clipped the first bolt.

Start up blocky jugs and up and over a small roof with a flared hand crack on the left side of the roof. Continue on blocky terrain to a bolted anchor.

A few face moves leads to a right facing dihedral.  A couple long reaches where the crack thins provides the crux move at a bulge.  Do not fear... there are some nice holds on the face to the right JUST when you need them!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southwest Shoulder