"Smokey, my friend, you are entering a world of pain...

Has the whole world gone crazy? Am I the only one here who gives a sh#t about the rules?"

Around the back side of the same formation as Shomer Shabbas (5.10a), pull up onto a short overhanging arete which doesnt quite reach the ground. After 10 or 15 feet, transition right into the slabby, concave "dihedral". Slabby, stemmy moves lead to the top.

Some fun moves and decently long (for the Playground), unfortunately the rock is very soft and sandy here.  May clean up with more ascents, but probably not ever worthy of sporting lead bolts.  Best left as a TR.

Mark It Zero!

Gutterballs

Nice Marmot

The Nihilist

Logjammin

Jackie Treehorn

Thats just like uh, your opinion, man.

Shomer Shabbas

The Chinaman

The Jesus

The Dude Abides

Face Down In The Muck

Autobahn

Careful, There's A Beverage Here!

Fun face climbing on good edges.  Crux comes at the third bolt.

"Ve'll cut off your johnson! Just think about that, Lebowski.  Your wiggly little penis, Lebowski.  Ya and maybe ve stomp on it and squoosh it, Lebowski."

A glorified highball problem on a gently overhanging face, checkered with shallow pockets and incut edges.  Beautiful. A V3? move off the ground gets you established on the wall. Crux comes before the first bolt, which is ~10 feet up.  Get a good spot.  A little sporty past the second bolt getting to anchors.  I hesitate to give it a PG rating, the fall would be very clean and airy.  Like so many routes in SB, we can only wish it were longer..

I found the crux is near the middle after the 2nd bolt. In the evenings and mornings this climb is in the shade and surrounded by large oak trees, bugs can be a problem but the rock is very unique on this side. There is a rather large pocket just to the right of Logjammin.

The start is not hard but can be unnerving as a slip might result in tumbling off the edge of a dropoff. Good holds lead up to the second bolt, then a bit tougher getting to the third and slightly runout. Blowing the 3rd clip would almost certainly be a ground fall unless you belayer jumped off the dropoff. This tempted me to give this route PG13.

The crux is above the 3rd bolt and is extremely thin. Good efficient sequences exist though.

"I told that Kraut a f&@king thousand times that I don't roll on Shabbas!"

Good crimping on solid dark varnish down low gives way to big slopers up high.  Crux moves come before and after the first bolt.  Another fun moderate route in the Lebowski area.

"The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude.  Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature.  Asian-American, please."

Climb up some good plates and edges past the first bolt and into the huge hueco.  An awesome 2-finger pocket gets you established at the overhanging bulge.  Pull over the bulge on good holds and make a desperate escape left onto the thin slab after the last bolt.

Steep (for SB) sporty climb past a few large huecos.

Climb featured face past 3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.  A good beginner lead.

Climb the center of the north face past huecos on suspect rock.  Lower or walk off to the left.

youtube.com/watch?v=pn-kxUE…

Low power moves with one really hard crank off a small edge. The crux definitely is moving past the first bolt. There is also a right variation that goes up and right after the first bolt then traverses back to the second bolt. The difficulty eases off past the second bolt. Excellent climbing.

Crux comes early.  Smooth sailing beyond that on lower-angle rock with good edges.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Lebowski Urban Achievers Crag