P1: 5.10b, climb an arching feature moving to the right up to a steeper face and anchor below a notch in the arete

P2: 5.10b, climb the exposed arete, then move left to the face and pull through some cracks and face moves

P3: 5.9, move past a bolt, into a corner, and finish up and left

New Model (No. 15)

Plum Line

Golden Oldies

Hex Route

Backseat Climber

Black Track

Master Beta

My Mutt Is Smarter Than Your Honor Student

The Apprentice

Bush Route

Flower Power

Finger Locking Good

Uncontrolled Burn

The Contender

A Good Ribbing

Lucy, I'm Home

Arete

Sierra Slam

Do you enjoy technical stemming, no holds climbing, and fantastic body position and movement?  If so, this is the route for you.  Begin on the third bolted line to the right of the recess in the middle of the recess in the Requiem Wall and follow the bolts.  Devious climbing and 15 bolts will lead to you the mussy hook anchors.

Climb left-leaning thin corner with to a face, clip two bolts and continue up the headwall with a mix of crack and and face climbing (nuts and small cams useful here). Clip one more bolt and finish up on a dihedral, or exit right to the anchor for Man With the Golden Arm. Gear is a bit tricky at the start and the climbing is a bit balancy. We exited to the Man With The Golden Arm anchor and our 70m rope is just enough, so if you are continuing up to the first pitch anchor, you may need to make two raps.

Excellent route that follows well protecting cracks up a dihedral.  5.9 if one stays in the shallow corner on the right on top, probably a little easier if one bypasses that section on the left.

Easy low angle crack leads to a huge rest ledge before the business: a sometimes wide and slightly overhanging layback crack which takes you straight to the chains.

P1: Easy 5th climbing up a somewhat loose corner to a two-bolt anchor on a large boulder

P2: Pull a few moves through a wide, low-angle chimney to get on top of the boulder and to the first bolt.  Enjoy face climbing on granite edges up to a bolted anchor

P3: Continue up past a couple of bolts to the top and a fixed anchor on a tree.

P3 is very short and could easily be combined with a 70m rope.  Likely with a 60m rope as well.

Climb up easy cracks/shallow left facing corner to a left traversing ramp that ends at the right facing dihedral.  Climb the dihedral to the shared anchor with Uncontrollable Burn/Plumb Line.  Most people are probably going to climb the dihedral to the point where one can move out on the face to the left and finish via the last 2 bolts of Uncontrollable Burn.  The top of the actual dihedral is full of lichen and hard to protect.

Begin to the right of Flower Power in the first left-facing corner with bolts and some darker colored rock to the left of the bolts.  Do some tricky moves down low which lead to quality crack climbing up high.

Begins up a corner, clip some bolts and aim for the small roof above. At the roof, exit the crack to the right (crux) and continue jamming your way up to the anchor.

Fun finger and thin hands crack that leads to some good face holds out left.  At this point traverse left to a ledge and pass two bolts to the anchor of the Hex Route.

Not quite as clean as the Hex Route but still fun climbing.  Easy TR from Hex Route anchor.

Start from a high point at the base and climb a thin crack to a bolt.  Move right across a shallow left facing dihedral (bolt), then move back left when nice dikes/jugs appear on the left.  Move up (more bolts) to a flake (thin gear), then cut back diagonally up and right (bolts), aiming for a crack (nice hands) and pod/alcove/belay on the right side of the dihedral.

Fun movement, length, quality rock, a bit of variety, and excellent position make this a great route.

Note: this is a long pitch!  Bring two ropes of sufficient length for a single rap or do two rappels (see topo pic).

Fun mixed bolts and gear route finishing with a nice 5.8 finger crack running through a clean slab.  Beautiful views and solitude.

Pitch one:

Climb past two bolts (5.8) to a section requiring gear.  Next, wander past 4 more bolts (5.8), then a bit more gear, and finish with three bolts (more 5.8)  to a two bolt anchor with rap rings at a great, spacious ledge. (9 bolts plus gear; 165 feet).

Pitch two:

Traverse left from the anchor, then climb up for 10-15 feet until you can traverse back right above the belay to a nice finger crack.  Follow the very nice slabby finger crack (5.8) upwards to the next belay at two bolts with rap rings.  You need to switch cracks towards the top of the pitch moving first left a bit and then back right.  Very nice pitch that protects well with small nuts and cams.  You can probably climb straight up from the belay to the finger crack, but there would be no gear.  The way I describe above protects well and seemed like the obvious way to go. (gear; 80 feet)

Descent:

Rappel the route with two ropes.  If I remember correctly, there was an additional set of rappel anchors half down and to the right of the first pitch.  This would probably facilitate rapping the route with only one 60m rope, but I am not sure.

Begin up the jagged crack feature, with some rather devious moves for the grade.  Continue into the second similar crack feature (beware, I broke a hold here), and then continue up mixed terrain to the anchors.

This thing doesn't seem to get done very often but is quite fun.

Make some slabby move off the deck and continue up a dihedral. Exit the dihedral and follow a bolted line on the face. Finish with a double crack that can be either jammed straight in or stemmed, #0.5 is useful here.

Fun, exposed climbing in a backcountry setting just 30-45 minutes from the car

P1. Climb a hand crack past a bolt (and/or place a cam) to a ledge. From here make your way up the right side of the face and arete to a bolted belay  .10b 80'

P2. Climb up the arete, stepping right at some point when things get thin, then back left. Really fun pitch and felt pretty heads up (maybe I was just gripped from the exposure). 15' below the top of this pitch I found myself in a 8' ow section, but you could probably bypass it on the face. Belay at bolts on a big ledge below a nice boulder problem in the sky  .11b 80'

P3. This is a short pitch, 25 feet maybe. Right off the belay it's on! Hug, slap, and tickle your way up the steep (overhanging) pillar in front of you for a few bolts and enjoy the wild position  .11b 25'

Recommended to link p1 and p2. It is possible to link all 3 with a 70m but a combination of rope drag and a ledge below some hard moves on p3 convinced us not to.

Rappel with 60 or 70m rope

Begin up cracks and corners trending up and gently right.  Once at the base of apillar/tower type feature, follow the hand crack to the anchors.  Do not hang out in the recess beyond this point or you will get to do some entertaining questing.

Fun lieback/arete climbing.  Easy TR via directional bolts.  Watch for loose rock.

Begin through a tricky low crux to glorious flake and crack climbing to some final funky and entertaining bolt-protected climbing in a left-facing corner.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mammoth Crest