The mega line of the boulder, start as for swerve but keep swerving until you can swerve no more.  This is the linkup of swerve into shift, and while no moves are particularly hard by themselves the lack of resting positions on unrelenting crimps make this a power endurance testpiece. Luckily, none of the holds are really big enough for you to get pumped.  

  While this line is somewhat of a traverse, interesting movements and solid holds make it a worthy problem. 

  I wasn't sure what to grade this since it's almost a sport climb.  It took a good amount of night sessions in a time I felt pretty solid and took considerably more goes than other V11's I sent around that time period.  However due to the endurancey style, and hesitation to grade harder so I decided to play it safe with 11.  I'm a punter when it comes to endurance anyways so it's probably not too hard. Numbers aren't real anyways :)   

  As a wise floating head in space once said, SHOW US WHAT YOU'VE GOT.

Get Schwifty

The Thug Waffle

Shift

Don't Swerve

Shift Stand Start

Swerve

Yeah, it's an eliminate. It's the thug waffle. Get over it.  If you want to climb it with all available holds and be a huge downer, go for it. It's easier and a decent warm up that way. 

  Or you can be a thug and sit start from good holds on the far left side.  Light up a cig and do a mini deadpoint left out the mini roof to another nice flat hold.  A proper ascent of the thug waffle requires a backwards hat and sunglasses. Let yourself take a swing and use your free hand to tip your sunglasses down. Put the sunglasses back on as you swing in. Steeze. 

  Bouldering is supposed to be fun, right? Don't take this too seriously. 

  Besides, a true thug wouldn't care what I said anyways right?

Starts in the middle of the boulder on the flat edge at the end of swerve before you head straight up.  Instead of exiting straight up, grab a right side pull crimp and shoot left.  Very interesting movement utilizing the thumb, and a big stab into a crimpy v-shaped pocket. From the pocket cross through to a sloper and top out straight up the tall face on small but incut crimps to a small ledge. Stand up on the ledge and make one last comitting move to the lip and top out.

Start sitting on the low jugs on the right side of the north face under the roof.  Climb straight out the roof on jug flakes leading to smaller holds,at the end of the roof turn right around the corner to top out.

Stand start matched on a full pad slopey rail on the left side of the face, and move straight up the nice white face through small crimps until reaching a juggy horizontal crack ledge about halfway up.  From there mantle the crack ledge and do a committing but easier move to the lip.

Super classic line, the dabbiness of it detracts from the crux.  This is made up for by variety of movement, length, and unrivaled rock quality. 

  Start sitting on the low jugs on the right side of the north face under the roof. Climb straight out the roof on jug flakes leading to smaller holds but instead of topping out to the right, swerve left and do interesting crux moves through edges and crimps until you reach a large flat edge.  From here make a few long but easier moves straight up out the mini roof and up the face above.

This is a great boulder with a large grade range and many classics, kinda by itself farther up the hill from the main area.  Worth the added walk though, these are not to be missed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Swerve Boulder