Getting past the lip of the roof is very difficult; a tcu could be placed in the crack if necessary to help you feel better about clipping the bolt past the lip. Cranking over the roof is easier if a foot jam overhead is used.

For A Few Ankles More

Shoot Don't Talk

Dimensional Cowgirl

Crack With No Name

Giu La Testa

Corner Saloon

The Good

Bone Dry

Angel Eyes

[Redacted]

The Bad

Plain High Drifter

Sorry Shorty

Trapdoor

Follow bolts up to chain, shares last bolt and chains with The Hanging Tree.

Tuco would be proud.  Climb over bulge and up face past a bolt to a tree anchor.

Currently the route that is furthest right in the spag west area, past broken area/gully and to second 50 footish cliff. Route starts just right of small pine. Nice egdes, crux between 3rd and 4th bolt, move slightly right at 3rd bolt for a move or two to keep at grade.

Just 50 yds right of Angel Eyes is a 5' roof, immediately right of this is a hand crack behind a pine tree.  Climb on great face/crack to low-angle top out.

Look right at the overhang a few bolts up; going left is @ 10ish.

In the center of the wall is a dihedral with a roof, start at the incipient crack and climb to top of dihedral, at it's end traverse left 5' to chains on For a Few Ankles More.

Climb up face and right-facing dihedral (crux down low) then follow easier crack to the top.  Crack at top is ~15' and easier, but not bolted; bring nuts for optional pro.  Bolted belay.

Fun route, bit steeper than it looks with a fun bulgy move and good pro. Rock looks blocky but it's actually solid. A great warm up for the wall.

Start just right of The Bad.  Follow a right-arching thin crack till it ends (#1 camalot), move up and left past a bolt, then straight up past more thin pro.

A fun sport climb.  Start behind tree (tree is off!)and edge up & right, then straight up.

Follow bolts past edges & slopers up a steep face, with crux at top.

The crack has thin pro and thin edges to start, this seemed cruxy to me.  The climbing was excellent and the pro adequate.

This clean crack starts at OW/Chimney just left of Giu La Testa.  Easy climbing to either side or a hard direct start (10ish) gets to the biz, a lazor edged crack with tons of face holds make this a good trad lead for the grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spaghetti Western Wall