Originally Slut Bammer, V6-7, until the breaking of holds, this line goes up the arete on the right of

Botslayer

. Start with your left on a good crimp/pinch and right on a sloper at head height on the right of the boulder. Make strong moves up the arete using toehooks, heels, and the remnants of the left holds on the face to a heady topout at the apex of the boulder.

Beta video:

https://vimeo.com/129741657

.

The Long Bright Dark

South Face

Backrub

Window Shopper

Wimpie's Revenge

Butt Slammer

Botslayer SDS

Westside Traverse aka Nook's Traverse

30th Birthday Roof

And Now For Something Completely Different

This is really one of the classic lines on the mountain. Big and steep with a remarkable series of features on a sheer overhanging wall. The question is has it been repeated since reported breakages took place? For such a stunning line, little info has been distributed publicly. See Chip's comments for more background.

On the south side of Nooks Rock is a blatantly obvious, steep wall. Start low and left, move right and grapple with flakes, an obvious pocket, etc.

The rock quality seems to be an issue, but the landing is problematical also. Bring a few spotters and a bunch of pads.

This problem is worth a dozen

Trices

and may be just as hard.

This is located on the west side of Nook's Rock. This is a great little wall with various warm up problems located on it. You can top out and then downclimb the same problem, no crash pad needed in this case. Nice warm up.

Start on the undercling as for

30th Birthday Roof

. Head out left of the prow, and top out straight up using a good sloper and some sloper crimps. The prow arete is off!

I have yet to finish this problem, I think it is probably a V7 or V8 unless I am missing something.

If you use the prow arete, the problem is called "And Now For something Completely Different", it is a V6, FA by Ben Collett.

As usual, more info can be found at

the Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Guide

.

On numerous runs up Flagstaff, I had stopped to look at this line, but Will had the fortitude to tackle the sharp, serrated edges and devious slopers and pebbles on this obvious classic line. Most will move on as the name suggests.

On the east face of Nooks Rock is a low overhang with an easily recognizable flake low and left. Sit start from here and move up and right to a challenging lip encounter.

The grade is a guess since I haven't got much feedback from others. I am guessing solid V11 or harder.

This is located around the corner from 'South Face'. This problem sits next to the obvious pine tree. It has nice climbing on small pockets and cobbles, it goes well with the others on Nook's Rock. There are various ways possible to do this problem.

Start low on the right side of the SE face, below

Butt Slammer

, on two sidepulls and get a high heel-toe cam on the right. Head up and left to the reinforced flake, and go left again to the arete via a long move from the flake or a throw from a razor crimp. (Taller climbers may find the flake method the easier option.) From the arete, rock over onto the slab and finish.

Botslayer Stand starts matched on the flake and is reckoned to be V10 in its own right, though I have doubts about the grade if you are tall enough to use the flake to make the reach to the arete.

This is on the same wall as

Wimpie's Revenge

. This is the traverse starting from the left, going right on this wall. You must sneak past the tree to get to the finish of the traverse, continue all the way around the corner if you can and finish on the far right corner of '

South Face

'.

Per

Doc Holliday

: although it’s possible to start all the way down near the northeast corner, the normal start is about 10 feet right of here at the leftmost obvious "red" hold.

Per

Todd Moy

: this may have a different name. See:

8a.nu/crags/bouldering/unit…

), Chip's blog (

flagstaffmountainbouldering…

), and Peter's video (

mountainsandwater.com/2008/…

).

Start matched on an undercling below the roof, and pull directly out the roof to the prow arête and the crimps just slightly to the right of the prow. Once established on these crimpers, top out right there. This is kind of short, but a fun battle typically ensues on the topout. Long pants may come in handy during the topout.

The description above is from Flagstaff Bouldering guidebook, problem #30, as linked below. I intend to update this with a recent beta photo and description. If you ever run into Chip Phillips, please buy him a drink.

http://flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/2008/06/nooks-rock-miniguide.html

This is a variation to

Backrub

which permits the arete. Start on the undercling, and move out to the left of the prow. Toss to the point, and hold the swing for a fun ride.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Nook's Rock