Beach Blanket Bingo

Son of a Beach

One Holer

Oh Mandy

Toe or Throw

Shelby's Off Ramp

Muscle Beach

Smiley

Topless Beach

Sand Bag

Shares first bolt with Beach Blanket Bingo.

Start on crimps at the base of the face, pull on and up to the good ledge at around 8/9'. Climb straight up through shelves to a large hueco 3/4ths of the way up. Continue straight on up to the anchor through face crimps and holds in the seam. 

5.8 up to the Crux at the last 8 feet to the anchor. 

A short route on its own in between the left section with smiley and toe or throw and the main cliff. This route is only a few moves. Route starts in a crack so maybe the idea was to put a piece of trad gear before the first bolt. For me the crux was one move that I felt was like like a mantle on crimps. Some ledges still pretty mossy / dirty. 

Easier than it looks. The large low-angle ramp lures you to get on it, but it's the the little steep one which is the way. Once standing on the protruding edge of it, it's an easy pull to the shelf above. From there it's all buckets almost to the top where it gets just a little crimpy.

A slightly harder and more interesting line than Sand Bag.

Good stances to clip bolts.  Good for practice leading.

Hemlock Ledges is a ledge system about 1/4 mile wide, to the south of Beach Pond. The tallest portion, the right side, is about 45 feet tall and off vertical. Historically this has been a place for people to set up some easy top ropes, though  Brian Phillips'  old trad leads have recently  been retrobolted so there are a few rare for RI bolted lead climbs. Bolts, if they are OK there, should probably not proliferate too much and be well camouflaged as the area is very popular with other users, but the handful of moderate sport climbs on good quality rock are a welcome addition to RI climbing. For further info see http://www.climbri.org/beach.htmMoving left there is a cave like formation that you see up the hill as you first approach the crag. It is named the Hand of Man Cave for the silhouetted hands painted on the wall. This general area and to the left has had some recent development by boulderers and as such is described in the Deadwood Area.Continuing left, with occasional breaks are more walls, mostly about 25" tall. There are more good short TR/solo/highball possibilities. Most are pretty easy and could use some cleaning. The rock tends to be very featured with good juggy holds. It is a little steeper over here so, though shorter than the right side, the lines can be good. It is possible to do some trad leading here if you want to practice your placements and don't mind the shortness. There are lots of trees up top for anchors and a couple bolted ones with chain so you only need a couple lockers (take care getting to them to set up. If scrubbed up, there could be some really long bouldering traverses, especially towards the left side.

Description

Protection

Routes in Hemlock Ledges