Straight from Grant Simmon's guidebook;  

  "Share the common start with "Windward Roof" and "Melba", but heads straight up through the roof when those routes split left or right. Gymnastic moves and a meagerly protected corner take you to the ledge."

Old Soaker

Full Sail

Barnacle

Tiger Shark

Melba

24 Hour Crack

Windward Roof

Crustacean

Bilge

Sinbad

High Noon

Head Arete

What's fun? 

  Climbing by the ocean? Finding a way to mantel up an awkard corner using laybacks and/or heel hooks to get established in a corner under a huge roof (crux)?? Traversing left to pull around a big-ass roof that looks much more intimidating than it really is? Slab climbing up backward's facing holds? Turning around and seeing boats of tourist waving at the "Rock climbers, scaling sea cliffs to your right, as Acadia is also a popular spot fo.." 

  If that sounds fun, this climb might be.

Super fun route with lots of flakes to grab on as jugs. Here's the quote from Grant Simmon's guidebook: "An extraordinary moderate. Either start up the obvious groove that splits the cliff or traverse in from the left (easier climbing) aiming for a bolt shared with Rhythm Figure and Bilge. From the bolt climb up and right, passing the Sinbad anchor (optional belay), and continue straight up to another bolt. Finish slightly right on a gorgeous headwall (bolt). Single bolt and small cams for anchor (the first anchor left of the Bilge gully).

Moderate up some big holds on the leftmost side of the left wall.

Not documented in Jeff's guide, but a great route! One of the best harder 5.11 TRs in the park.    Starts right between Emporium and Head Arete in a small black left facing corner 15' left of Head Arete. Undercling the low roof and grab a perfect one pad edge, then boulder the small left facing corner. Go up on the perfect black rock arete feature until it slabs out. Finish on Emporium or Head Arete. Pretty independent line between route 13 and 14 in the guide. 

According to the Butterfield guide book, back in 1915 there was an 18 ft. diameter stone tower that stood atop Great Head.  This tower was constructed by the tireless efforts of a donkey name Melba, who hauled in approximately 35 tons of cement and sand.  This route is named in honor of her. 

  Much like the donkey, this route is stout! 

  Pitch one starts below the alcove on the left side.  Climb into the alcove.  Once established, traverse right past a bolt to a stance and build a gear anchor.  You could also rappel down to this point from the top of the cliff. 

  There will two bolts on the roof above you; the left one is for Melba.  It's reachy to clip this bolt.  You can place a micro cam (blue alien) before committing to this reach.  With optimism, climb up over the roof (crux) and through the overhang making some wild moves in the process.  This felt very hard for the grade but is bolt protected.  Move up and left on easier, but non-trivial ground, following a crack system to the top and a 2 bolt anchor.

Start just where the rock starts to drop out and the big roof is about to begin. Usually starts off with some kinda mantel, followed by climbing a vertical/slab face with a corner/bulge near the top. I thin the difficulty can vary slightly depending on how far right or left you climb.

Pluggin pieces with a background of crashing waves, what could be better? 

  The crux is probably in the first 10-15 feet, weather you traverse out left and back or just make the reach straight up for it. 

  A guidebook once told me this was about 5.7, but I did some 5.6's the following day at the South Wall which were significantly more challenging. pshhttt, grades...

Climb up the big ledge thing (careful not to slip on wet rocks!) to gain the first bolt. Off some crimps and slopers, the crux might be gaining the opposing sidepull crimp things to make the second bolt. Some more steadily strenuous moves continue up the bulge, but thankfully there's a victory jug just at the top. Clip that last bolt, mantle up, and continue over easy run out terrain to reach rap the rap bolts in the black "V" groove above.

Was 12 "Hour Crack" in Jeff's Guide. Free climbed by Dave Sharratt.

If you have only one day to climb at Acadia, you should head out to the Otter Cliffs.  But save an hour or two to head out to Great Head to do this incredible pitch.  In contrast to the other sections of the cliff that have committing apporaches, Head Arete has a simple walking approach.  It is somewhat tide dependent though, so pick a low tide window to head over or else the start will be wet. 

  At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middle part of the cliff.  Clip the high first bolt, and then make a sketchy mantle manuever to get established on the climb.  The cruxiest move comes at the 2nd bolt, where a powerful lieback gets you on to a beautiful headwall.  The next section is why this climb is so classic:  tricky, thoughtful, sustained 5.10 face climbing in a spectacular setting.  The bolts are never so far apart that you could get seriously hurt, but big whippers are possible.  A cam placement in this section helps with piece of mind.  The great climbing, coupled with the fact that your belayer is out of sight and there is nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is what makes this pitch so memorable.  The finish is harder than it looks, so think about it before committing. 

  One of the best pitches of trad face climbing anywhere.

The least tide dependent section of the cliff, and easiest to access.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Left wall