Climb technical features straight up to the roof.  Undercling, lieback, and wrassle your way up the feature, finishing with a tough crimpy section, wondering if you'll be the jerk who accidentally breaks off the namesake wafer of rock everyone shakes out on.  Up around the roof, chert ladder gets you home.

Communion Wafer

The Light

The Cathedral Route

Pastorized

Traditional Temptation

Walk on Water

RU4-GSUS

Sweaty Psalms

Cruxifixion

The Minister

The crux of this route is encountered on the first pitch, and consists of a tricky sequence of moves as you move onto and off of the arete at the bottom. This is followed by a series of small edge crimps on lower angled black rock. There is another crux right below the first set of anchors. 

  Pitch 1: 8 bolts to LO (5.11c)- Follow the bolts through an initial loose section to an arete that leads to lower angled rock full of thin black ledges. Climb this slab to a corner with no more bolts in sight until you move right. Climb past two more bolts on clean gray rock to the anchors and a small belay ledge. 

  Pitch 2: 7 bolts to LO (5.10b)- Climb up and right from the anchors on clean gray rock. The starting moves are tricky, and felt hard for 5.10-. Follow the black horizontal bands upward. There is a short loose section encountered just before the next anchors. 

  Pitch 3: 11 bolts to LO (5.11a)- Head up and right from the anchors on good gray rock. The first three bolts through the roof are quite sustained. After about 100 feet of wavy gray rock, and several sustained sections, finish the pitch up a semi loose corner crack to anchors twenty feet below the top of the cliff. I thought this pitch to be more challenging than the first due to the continuously difficult climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging rock. 

  It is highly recommended that you climb to the summit, especially to see the faces of the surprised hikers as you emerge from the cliff.  Another fun alternative is to have someone meet you at the top with a picnic lunch! Be careful as the final 20ft of rock is loose... but easy.

  Hint- This route is in the shade most of the day, and has lots of sharp limestone points so be sure to dress appropriately (long sleeves and long pants recommended).

Traditional Temptation's big brother. This route opens with a launch off the deck to a hand jam, followed by short lie-back section. Stem from left corner to right corner, use a few more traddy finger jams, and find a rest. The first anchor comes after a few bolts of thoughtful, easier face climbing.8 more bolts get you to the second anchor. This involves a tricky (safe) traverse and some exposed crimping up a beautiful face of gray rock and chert.  A little dirty, but a very wild, lonely place. Probably 10+ if you nail the beta. 

A million bolts of 5.10 with a short section of something that feels 11a near the top.  At the undercling at the last bolt go left for a 10- finish, or, like the FA: pray hard and go right for an 11+ move. Over-bolted fun. 

The first pitch is a stand alone awesome pitch, and the next 2 are good enough to try at least once.  There is a 4 bolt extension to pitch 1 that doesn't change the grade, and requires a 70m to get off of.  Pitch out as your heart desires, but here's how I did it.P1.  Start in the blocky crack.  Climbing starts at 5.5 and basically gains a grade every bolt to the big ledge rest.  From here to the chains it is full on. Big moves on steep terrain to big holds.  10 bolts.P2. Climb the 4 bolts to the next anchor and continue on, using long draws as needed.  As you pull out of the steep terrain, you will expect it to let up.  It will not.  Tiptoe through the easy-yet-chossy section, clip the high bolt, and climb up the left side of it.  The final move is kind of wild.  Extend the belay for maximum comfort, and safety for belaying the next section.  13 bolts.P3.  Hard climbing right off the belay, eased by holds outside left.  Getting through this leads to the hollow flake section.  Really tricky to get through the last bit of this, as the flakes are so secure it's hard to give them up.  The last 40' or so is tiptoeing up through some looseness (we didn't knock anything off, everything was more secure than it looked) to bolts in the corner.  Escape left, top out, and walk climbers right to an anchor with a 2 foot chain.  9 bolts.Walk off or rap the Cathedral Route with at least a 70m.  Simul-rapping was nice for the rope stretch.

Stick clip the first independent bolt on this line.  Climb the bottom few bolts of "Traditional Temptation" and swing around the arete.   Bouldery. Thin. Sharp.

 Good luck with that onsight.

Go to the end of the chicken line and start climbing well right of the first bolt.  Easy, but thoughtful climbing leads to a ledge.  Get your rest before the ledge, then make "the move" to that jug up and right.  Clip the bolt and run to the chains.I've seen "the move" done at least 4 ways now. 

Technical and sustained.  A nice line on small holds. 

 It's possible to warm up on Communion Wafer and hang the draws very easily. 

Action packed, steep, and fun.Decipher the opening boulder problem of pockets, crimps, and a slappy fin to a decent rest.  Pull over a second bulge to a few bolts of jugs, with a thoughtful finish to the chains.This route is tightly bolted, and either 11d or 12a.

Cathedral Rock is the prominent cliff next to the Mt. Charleston Lodge in Kyle Canyon. There is a 40 minute hike up the side of the rock, making it one of the most summitted formations on the mountain.  This crag is a narrow ledge, perched 70 feet in the air and reached by an easy scramble.  Belay bolts are present for each route, the permanent stick clip should be used on every route, and you should rap off the ledge at the end of the day. At least one person has been seriously injured down scrambling the approach.  The Cathedral Route is a bolted three-pitch line that reaches the top, and is probably still the best route here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Church Pew