This prominent straight-up crack in solid rock is very distinctive and easy to see when approaching the south face of Stirrup Rock.

The most difficult section, a shallow pod, occurs within the first eight feet. The climbing eases considerably until a bulge near the top.

Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater

Carlos and Peter go to the Rodeo

Dancin' Daze

Overpowered By Funk

Carlos Danger

Fear of a Black Planet

Dancin' Daze starts up a left-angling corner/crack, 20' left of

Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater

.  Climb the crack (crux?) to a low-angle ramp below the large roof.  A big step right (crux?) leads to fun, reasonably-protected face climbing.  A shoulder-length runner or two can be used to sling knobs.  Rejoin a low-angle crack past the roof to the summit.

Prudent use of shoulder-length slings should keep rope drag to a minimum.

Start up Dancin' Daze and make your way to the base of the roof. Traverse the roof on small cams (a couple of these are body weight only!)  until you can get a #5 in the crack, make a free move to the horns on the face below the crack, then finish as for Dancin' Daze.

NOTE: This can/should be split into two pitches to avoid the rope being eaten by the crack after exiting the roof.

Climb up a slab past two bolts, then run it out (easy) to the headwall.  Climb up and then right to the blunt arete, pasting more bolts, until you reach the slabby finish.

To the left of the main south face is a short wall with a horizontal dike.

Climb a chimney on the right, then past a bolt to the dike. Move left past a bolt, then up past four more bolts, to a two bolt anchor.

Rappel.

Description

Protection

Routes in Stirrup Rock - South Face