The roadside crag has been "discovered" by numerous parties, some before bolting, some after. But until Paul Bernard's great book "Rock climbs of Northeast California" few knew of names of routes or FA's in the area. Hence many names for the same route.

French Fried Knuckle Buster is a case in point. A few un-named guys got together and did all the lines here, naming everything "French Fried....". No one remembers  why, just happened.

The line goes straight up through 3 mini roofs, with at least 2 dynos and as many lock off dead points. Named for the busted knuckles you might get if you blow the last big dyno. He did.

French Fried Knuckle Buster

First Pillar

Muscrat Love

French Fried Spider Web

All Thumbs

Practice Crack

The Crack

The Ish or the Er. aka French Fried Frog Legs

Cardiac Arete

The Corner

As you enter the area the first 'climb on your left. "First  Pillar" has at least 3 top rope lines on it, variations and distinct. Fun place to play.

Opposite of The Cardiac Arete is the only other arete at the crag, this one not bolted. Start directly below and slightly to the right of the overhanging arete, move up into a good jug, move  up on thin fingers and step out onto the arete proper. Could be a 5.12 move or two, who knows?

Another one of those..."if this was a whole pitch it would be awesome" lines.

Start low to the left of the arete, following the diagonal crack to where you can pull up onto the center of the face, move up, not using the crack to your right. Contrived, but fun. The crux is finding the mono, which on the first ascent was hidden by spider webs. Good practice for small edges.

(From Paul Bernard's book) Chain anchor serves as toprope for a number of possible lines on the third pillar. The main face involves a thumb hook and the arete on the left has at least a couple of 5.12 moves.

Just kidding about the X! This is a good crack to send the kids up, give beginners a chance to 'top out' on a crack. Might be easier than 5.3, but hey, it's there.

To the right of 'The Corner' is The Crack. A face with a zigzag crack.

The widest section wall, all of 8'. Named Ish or Er as in 10ish or 5.10er. Easy to make it 5.8, contrived to stay in the 10ish sections.

If this was a full pitch, it would rate 4 stars. A fun, challenging line right off the ground to the top. Groundfall potential on the first 2 bolts. The only bolted arete on the central "pillar", right of the Corner.

The big dark wide mossy corner. If that sounds appealing, go for it. Lots of options to play on.

French Fried Knuckle Buster

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadside Hide aka Cardiac Cliff