P1:  (5.10) about 65 feet with mixed gear, pro is good but look for it.

 P2:  (5.11-) about 95 feet with gear and one bolt (at the crux up high).  There is a run to the anchor after the crux.  Go right from the P1 belay and find a jug pull above the ledge, continue up interesting small crack climbing until you reach the bolt above.

Learn to Swim

The Lee Side

The Windward Passage

Blender Head

Storm Warning

Good Clean Fun

P1:  start in a clean left to right crack which joins a larger left facing weakness.  Climb the weakness to a ledge, clip a bolt, continue up and traverse left (below a roof) to a ledge.  Step up a bit more to a stance for the gear anchor (about 90 feet). 

  P2:  continue up the crack but do Not go into the orange less good rock.  Step right where a clean 1 inch crack joins clean easier face climbing.  Continue right another 15 feet, clip a bolt, go up and later follow a thin crack rising to the right.  Finish at a large tree on a huge ledge (about 75 feet).  Be sure to have long runners on the traverse to minimize rope drag. 

  Down climb to Science Friction ledge and find a way to climb back out to the top of this wall (an established route or an easy romp on the left side).

See Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2003, Sharp end Publishing) for a good description. 

  First pitch is a "Great".  Second pitch is just "Okay" - has its share of looseness and lichen for a good stretch (~40 ft?) right off the belay.

See Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2003, Sharp end Publishing) for a good description. 

  Schein's guide indicates to belay P2 near a tree.  We set a belay lower at about 30 meters from the start, just right of the short chimney (semi-hanging belay).  From that lower belay one can head up about 10 feet, get in some pro, and traverse left to the finger crack.  If the belay is set this way, I'd give the second pitch a "great" rating, and first pitch is "okay" to "good" and needs pruning as of June 2009.

P1-Climb more or less straight up to towards the bottom of the large arching corner passing a small right facing corner and belaying in a sort of scoop.   P2-Climb the crack up to the roof, turn the roof using a face hold up and right protect with small gear, blue alien and a stopper. The crux of this route is not particularly physical but demands attention, make sure to spend time finding the foot holds and stay calm, staying in one place is easy, moving up onto the next footholds is the hard part, about 10 feet of very delicate climbing where the corner arches right over your head. Continue up the corner with a combination of face, layback and stemming moves with small gear in the corner and horizontals.

Good rock, good movement, fairly continuous, just less than vertical face climbing.

See Mick Schein's Sandia Rock guide for a complete description. 

  A hidden area with clean steep faces.  These areas consist of a few easier trad climbs along with some harder mixed climbs.  Consists of two different levels, Science Friction being the upper wall and Windward wall being the lower wall. 

Windward Wall: L to R 

The Lee Side 5.8+  

Blender Head 5.7+    Leftist Tendoncies 5.9  

Storm Warning 5.11d  

Good Clean Fun 5.11a  

The Windward Passage 5.9+    Sea Breeze 5.9

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Windward Wall