Lay back on the fin 8 ft to the right of "To Fin or Not to Fin" up to the slab above. Move left along the slab to the arete. From this point on gear is non-existent, feet and hand holds (other than the arete) are sparse. Grunt your way up the right side of the arete to the slab above.

The Blade Right

Kiss the Blade

Gunboat Diplomacy

To Fin or Not to Fin

Work through the low overhung hand jam that narrows to fingers above the overhang. The arete to the right offers a few pinch holds. At the top of the finger crack is a clutch 3 finger pocket that is invisible from below. Move to a jug above and work right around the priminent arete. Work the arete to the top. (Beware, gear is sparse and tricky for the middle 20 ft).

Work your way up the slab from the right to the left. Use the large crack to gain the upper slab, then make delicate moves up to horizontal rails that signal the end of the real climbing. Finish on easy slab to the top.

Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall.  It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall.  The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in.  The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.   

  The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.

This area is pretty shady and doesn't draw the crowds that the Upper Mountain crags (Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth) get. Most of the climbers at Devil's Kitchen will be top roping, with The Blade being no exception. The one lead climb is Gunboat Diplomacy, a well-protected 5.4.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Blade