P1: 5.7, 30'.  Climb loose rock/crack on the East face to access a large ledge. Gear belay. 

  P2: 5.6R, 100'. Climb low angle but easy terrain with sparse protection to the summit. 

  Rap - Rap with double ropes off two bolts and some tat that is probably rotten by now.  Sorry - will add chains spring 2016.

Sparrow Spire

Wild Woman Spire

Desert Mule

Snaggletooth Spire

Rotten Rock Spire

West face crack system. 

  P1: 90' 5.10.  Scramble up low angle terrain to the limestone band.  Traverse right to reach the bottom of the crack system. Fingers to hands then an awkward move into the pod.  Make a few moves left and into a second crack.  Ascend this through some unique terrain to the Pinyon the top. Tree belay.  

  Move the belay up blocky terrain to the base of the summit block - 30' 

  P2: 5.10, 30'. Face climb the summit block past one bolt and an "old school" 5.9 mantle to the summit. 

  Rap - 115' down the west face to the notch.  One 70M will make it.

Phallic spire north of trail as you approach Secret Canyon. P1: 5.10 OW, P2: has 3 distinct cruxes: 5.11OW off the belay, 5.11fingers midway and then 5.11bouldery move to summit cap.

P1: 5.8, 80'. Climb the obvious South face crack/chimney to the cave about halfway up the spire. Belay on two bolts. This cave tunnels all the way through the spire! 

  P2: 5.9, 70'.  Wild!!! Climb out the roof through chockstones then into a hand crack on the vertical face above.  Scramble to the summit. 

  Rap - Rap the route.  I cannot remember what I left to rap with so bring some tat and a few leaver biners.

P1: 5.9 or 5.10, 45'.  Start on the North face from the notch. The crux of this spire is the very bottom.  Either take a nasty 5.9 squeeze chimney boulder problem with poor pro or a stout 5.10 boulder problem to the left with good pro.  Either way, top out and climb low angle chossy rock up and left to a spooky pillar at the limestone band.  The leader on the FA pulled a microwave sized block onto himself here so be careful.  Continue around on a nice ledge to the SE face and belay off gear at the base of a good looking crack. 

  P2: 5.9, 45'. Climb the nice thin hands to hand crack for 30, clip a bolt and face climb to the summit.  Belay off rap anchors. 

  Summit is a cool island in the sky of desert flora. 

  Rap - 90' back to your packs

includes the classic "Desert Mule" as well as the "Pink Wiggler"

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Secret Canyon