Bolted by Mike Benge a few years back, this captivating route sat as a project until Ben Spannuth got the FA in the summer of 2012. The route climbs a dark streak on rock that's much steeper than it first appears. The climbing gets progressively harder as you climb higher until the crux hits you at the last 2 bolts traversing left to the anchors.

Eds. Per

Jeff G

: the entire bottom of this route fell off. Massive chunks of rock the size of buses are lying at the bottom of the cliff. The first three bolts fell off.

Home Bruin

Boomerang

Yogi's Space Race

Delayed Reaction

Climb By Design

Nuka Arete

Hello Mr. Fancy Pants

Tin Man

Boo Boo Bear

It goes up a slab with small holds along a wall to the top of the roof and then traverses left to anchor shuts at the top of

Nuka Arete

.

If you're feeling strong, then you should get on this route.  Start by climbing a steep face and slab past 4 bolts with one cam placement before getting to the second bolt.  Blindly clip the 5th bolt over the roof and then get ready for the powerful crux.  One more bolt gets you to the anchor.

Climb easily up the slab and to the first high bolt.  From there, climb on edges and sidepulls to a good rest jug below the roof and the 4th bolt.  The crux begins here getting through the roof and ends with a throw to a horizontal above the 5th bolt.  The anchors are above on the ledge.

Same start as

Nuka Arete

, but continue up the corner after the second bolt. An awkward moves gets you onto a shelf, from which you can move right to clip the chains. Not sure why the last bolt is so far left....

Start up some slabby rock to gain the corner, then head right onto the arete. Some thoughtful, technical climbing takes you to the anchors.

This route weaves through the black-streaked roofs left of

Boo Boo Bear

. Four bolts protect some interesting boulder problems that are capped with with a couple of insecure slab moves to the anchors. The style reminds me of the routes in Rifle's Winchester Cave.

The climbing from bolt 2 to the top is fun and engaging (12b-ish), but I was not quite able to solve the crux at the first bolt, even with a left kneepad. Two kneepads might be helpful. It also appears that there could be some other grovelly, contorted sequence. Either way, this crux seems pretty heinous. I gave up after getting several rope burns while using left kneebar beta, which was nearly working—the bolt protecting these moves is exactly where you'd want it, but as you climb around the bolt, it's hard to keep the rope out of the way, and the rope ends up sliding across your torso when your feet slip out. It was easy enough to clip up to the second bolt and send from there, which was worthwhile. It would warrant two stars if not for the unpleasant boulder/A0 off the ground.

The welded round-shut on one of the anchor bolts is bent, perhaps smashed by rockfall. It would be possible to access these anchors by lowering down from

Boo Boo Bear

.

Tin Man is another bolted boulder problem

a la

Indy Pass. It's short and scruffy, on the margin of the cliff, and within spitting distance of low-angle choss to the left and right. Yet it does have some fun, steep moves that are harder than they appear from the ground, and the route stays shady, thanks to a nearby tree. You might as well do it if you're up here.

Boo Boo Bear starts with some steep face climbing (crux) to a slab.  After pulling the lip of the face follow 3 more bolts up the slab to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Designer Wall