This is a worthy little distraction from the other No Name climbs or maybe it could be a warm-up or cool down for a day of trad climbing. Start on the far left of the boulder's south face in a pod or with hands matched on the leaning arete (not to be confused with and to the left of the left-angling crack). Traverse right all the way to the southeast face and top out. This climb has tricky footwork as the rock is deceptively slippery.

Edit: After climbing this again, I decided to upgrade it to V2. I think that is more accurate considering some of the cryptic beta and tricky footwork.

Boulder Traverse

Fianchetto

River Boulder V-Project

Godless

Smile from a Veil

Fifth Base

Road Boulder

Effervescence

Reverse Traverse

Funnel Weaver

Sky Shroud

Spank Box

Start low where the black rock meets the white with your right hand on a sharp crimp and your left hand on a gaston, fingerlocky feature. Work up and left through nice rock on cool crimp ledges, traversing into less quality rock with an easy section halfway, to the topout up the hill on the left. Bring a spotter or bunch of pads.

Start by hugging the arete using two opposing micro-crimp sidepulls (around navel height). Move straight up until you can pull onto the upper slab and top out.

It is only climbable during low water in the fall or winter.

This is on the boulder next to the river. There is a pretty good landing. The crux is one large bodylength reach to more good holds. I just recently clean some moss and dirt, so it's good to climb.

Scramble up and start in the horizontal crack. Climb straight up the tall, overhanging face and arete using gaston crimps and arete pinches. Top out directly up the arete on to the upper slab.

There is also a much easier/safer variation that immediately turns the arete corner and climbs rails up the alcove.

Sit start matched on a low undercling. Move up through the overhung scoop to the lip. Wrestle with the bulging lip and arete for the top out.

There are three routes on this decent piece of rock. The farthest left goes as V0-1 if you don't stem out to the rock to the left. The middle on goes at V1, and the far right I haven't climbed because it was soaking wet.

Stand start matched on the half-moon side pull in the middle of the slab. Climb straight up and slightly left using a variety of holds to tackle the steepest, most blank part of the boulder.

There are a few, fun variations.

This is the right-to-left version of

the traverse

. This direction is slightly more difficult. Start with hands matched on an obvious hold about chest high on the southwest face and make a fun move to a sloper sidepull. Finagle your way around the arete (crux) and do a tricky traverse to the left with sometimes non-existent footholds. Finish in the big pod far left for the send.

Stand start with your left hand on an undercling sloper and your right hand on the arete using a pinch. Climb directly up the arete.

Rose Weaver variation starts the same but peels left of the arete and tops out up the small face.

Start crouched with your left hand in a triangular jug pocket thing and your right hand on a side pull sloper. Use crimps to climb straight up the overhanging face to a committing throw for the lip. The movement is great, and you can safely work the lower portion, but if you blow the move to the lip you could be in for the ride of your life.

Start in the perfect cavey hole under the roof. Stand start on the triangular jug with feet on the wall. Slap your way out with bad feet to the sloper rail mantel. Finish up and left for a easy/spicy topout, or end after you mantel to a stand on the rail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in No Name Canyon Boulder Problems