This route is two pitches.

P1: 5.9 (80 ft.)  Start in the groove in the arete past the crux of the pitch about 15 feet up, then enjoyable climbing all the way to the first anchor station.

P2: 5.11- (70 ft.)  From the anchors this climb breaks up and to the right under the obvious, imposing roof.  The crux is very well protected, and the fall looks clean, but it definitely takes some guts to launch into it as you traverse somewhat blindly out on the roof and have the best exposure on the pipeline wall.  After moving up through the roof a bit, there is a hanging chain.  Clip your draw to the end of this to help with drag, and continue up and back to the left on somewhat desperate holds.  Once you've taken care of the roof (phew) - enjoy another 15 or 20 feet of 5.9 to the chains.

Descent: Rappel the route.

I combined these pitches as one with a 70m rope and would not recommend anyone do this.  In spite of extending a few pieces, the drag was pretty bad during the crux, and awful at the end of the route.

Can't Touch This

Rock Cobbler

Swashbucklers and Scallywags

Queen Anne’s Revenge

Shark Skin Leisure Suit

Dangler

Real Tomato Ketchup

Crystal Squeeze

Skylight Arete

Calypso

High Motivation

Whip or Will

Underground Railroad

Gold

Ame's Way

Contortionist

Black and Tan

Rocksteady

Dolittle Does Something

Dreams of Ambition

Blackbeard’s Gold

Crystal Cruise

This route climbs relatively low-angle conglomerate up the face next to the corner. It has a relatively high 1st bolt, but it's easy to get to on good feet/holds. There is no obvious crux.

Begin on good cobbles, and follow 5 bolts to the anchor.

*** This route, along with the others on The Black Pearl are usually wet in the early summer. Depending on snow melt, they are usually dry and cleaned up by July. ***

This route stars on some sharp jugs and climbs up through a roof and past 4 bolts to the anchor.

*** This route, along with the others on The Black Pearl are usually wet in the early summer. Depending on snow melt, they are usually dry and cleaned up by July. ***

Start underneath the roof on good holds with a low bolt.  Do a weird traverse under the roof out to the right and then balance your way up the technical blank looking face and pull the 2nd roof.  Then cruise on up fun face climbing and one last roof to the chains.  This route is loads of fun as long as you can figure it out before you pump out!

Presumably named after the action climbers will go through passing the crux roof on the second pitch, Dangler is a fun, mostly moderate outing with a pronounced roof crux.

Pitch 1 starts up easy ground for a couple of bolts and then into a more-awkward-than-hard 5.8 crux bulge before entering more cruiser terrain to a nice belay ledge and the chain anchors.

Pitch 2 tackles the obvious roof above. Consider longer runners on the two bolts under the roof to reduce rope drag above. Pull the fun and wild roof move to gain interesting terrain to a mid-pitch rap anchor. Belay there or continue for another four bolts up fun rock to just below the rim of the lower wall.

Real Tomato Ketchup is a great climb with a definitive roof crux about 2/3s of the way up the route. It is slightly easier than the other 10+'s in the area.

Crystal Squeeze is a good warm-up. The little roof halfway up ends the difficulties.

Start up a mellow face past ten bolts to the anchors. For pitch two, step right and clip seven more. The third pitch is the best. Clip twelve bolts while enjoying the easy arete, and belay at the

Ame's Way

anchors. I am not sure where the crux is, but it's all great climbing with bolts right where they should be.

The route starts up a nice slab and then climbs through a steep black face to the anchor. Look for hidden pockets when it gets hard.

*** This route, along with the others on The Black Pearl are usually wet in the early summer. Depending on snow melt, they are usually dry and cleaned up by July. ***

Climb starts easy through a bad layer of rock before the first bolt, then Telluride conglomerate.  The face is much steeper than it looks, so keep moving!  Blaze through a roof up high and soon you'll be at the chains.  This route is quite a pump-fest for the grade.

Whip or Will is a fun, sustained route, a lot like

Underground Railroad

only not as long or hard.

Whipping Post, now renamed Underground Railroad as per Paul Emrick, is a very long pitch of sustained climbing! It has standard issue Telluride conglomerate the whole way as you roll through several small overhangs and cruxes. It is one of the best pitches on the pipeline.

Climb a short pitch (5.6, 3 bolts) to a big ledge with an anchor. The fun starts here. Climb up the narrow overhanging wall in a corner. This is an old unfinished Bruce Eriksen’s project resurrected in 2015. It is an 18° overhanging wall.

Start up the low-angle face past seven bolts to a chain anchor.  Repeat two more times to the top and then do three 30 meter raps back down the way you came.  A good cruiser that is thoughtfully bolted.  Couldn't find a definite crux.  Any two of the pitches can be easily combined.

This route takes some thinking off the deck, eases up, and then has a definitive crux at the roof above.  A very good route.

Black & Tan follows the obvious, tan and black, vertical line up to the left side of a triangular roof on sustained and near vertical climbing.

Scramble up a short bit of loose rocks and dirt to the base of the route. A large boulder to the left of the start of the route offers a nice ledge to place your packs and gear.

Climb up a shallow dihedral to the high first bolt. Continue up the steepening rock using cobbles and pockets to surmount a small bulge. Above that, fish around for the right pockets and cobbles on steep terrain to a much-needed rest on a small diving board cobble near the 8th bolt. A few more moves on juggier terrain lead to the anchor.

Though comprised of Telluride conglomerate, this is a super solid route. It is a lot of fun with some exciting moves to make. The crux for me was at the first bolt. The draw kept getting in the way of my leg, but there are small holds to boot. A big move up to a jagged looking jug - easier if you're not 5' 7". After that, the foot work is big and easy if utilized well. At about 70' is a small ledge and roof, with a sweet layback on two sloper to the right, with a big left foot up. You get sparse hands above that, but it is easy beyond the last bolt.

There is lots of variety on this one! Climb up the face on crimps and cracks to the overhung corner on cobbles and then out onto the arete on cobbles and pockets. I'm 5'9" and can just reach the starting crimp. You may get plenty of rope drag, and it is tough to clean without a second.

An easy start leads to smoother blank face that requires some balancy moves. Then the climbing gets steep and similar to

High Motivation

, with some big reaches in between good holds and a bit of back and forth across the bolt line. It is pumpy and fun to figure out!

This route begins with a tricky start then climbs past 4 bolts and nice pockets to a chain anchor. It is (currently) the rightmost route on “The Black Pearl”, a sub-wall of Pipeline featuring short routes with “new school” bolting. These routes serve as good warm-ups or first leads for the novice leader.

*** This route, along with the others on The Black Pearl are usually wet in the early summer. Depending on snow melt, they are usually dry and cleaned up by July. ***

This is a good warm-up to get a taste of the Telluride conglomerate. The bolts are a bit widely spaced, but it is easy ground in between them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pipeline Wall