The crux comes with the crimp series about mid route. It is a fun route with an interesting sequence!

Climb a harder start past three bolts, but the holds are positive. It is considerably easier to the top.

Don't Drag the Dog

Night and Day

Gomer Alert (Dude, I Think I Lost My Wallet?)

Transmogrifier

5.10 Three's a Charm

Far Left 5.8

Neon Noodle

Psychic Bomber

Wolfman Shuffle

Dude, I Think I Lost My Wallet?

This is super pumpy on small-ish holds with some big reaches, especially near the top.

This is the third route in from the right side of the crag. It is the left of the three short-ish routes to the right of the 5.9 that goes high up the middle of the rock.

This is a fun climb with 8 bolts.

It is the second climb from left of the 5.9, which is the obvious line that goes high into the broken rock/dihedral at the top of the middle of this cliff.

5.9ish terrain leads to the first bolt, then move up right on solid but intimidating holds.  Carefully clip the second bolt (groundfall potential).  Use some awesome sidepulls to a high jug on the 3rd bolt.  Two moves between the 3rd and 4th bolts are quite hard on small finger sidepulls and make the crux of the route.

Then follow an easy series of huge, sharp sidepulls to the overhanging, broken finish.  Monster jugs make this easier than it appears, but you better have some strong forearms for this one!

This is the 3rd route from the left side.

This is a fun route on the far right side of the cliff (it is the right-most route).  It can be top-roped easily by scrambling up around to the right.  Please use your own biners if top roping!

Easy moves to the third bolt, then an interesting step across left. Set up and crank through several hard finger liebacks to the top.

This is a linkup of

Wolfman Shuffle

and

Night and Day

. Follow the first three bolts on

Wolfman Shuffle

and then carefully do a right traverse to

Night and Day

, which allows you to bypass the crux of both routes and avoid the scary second clip on

Night and Day

.

The bolt line is straight up, but the best holds seem to wander a bit, so just keep looking around. Left of the second bolt, the top of the left little corner seems loose but has held so far.

It's a long way to the first bolt, but the climbing is easy.  The crux is around the 4-5 bolts with a bit of a reach to the right.

This is the second route to the left.

It starts down on easy climbing and then moves into a right-angling, thin seam and crimp sequence.  Pumpy!!

Then pass through a cave (more of an inset with a large roof).  Getting out of here is quite challenging, though you can cheat around to the left on easy terrain.

Easy climbing leads to a finish on the direct blank looking face.  The techy, awesome sequence through the finish will leave you wanting more!

This is a great route to warm up on for this crag, and is also the longest. It follows bolts up the vertical face to a no hands rest.  Continue up the dihedral/corner system for another 10 feet, and then bust out onto the arete for some nice air and a fun finish!  (Or stay in the corner for an easier go.)

This route is just right of center.  It's the fourth from the right, and easily identifiable as the only route that goes past the first ledge, all the way to the top of the cliff.

This is the first route left of the long 5.9 that goes high up the middle of the rock and up the right side of the dihedral.  The top of this route goes on the arete on the left side of said dihedral.  You can also identify this by the white vertical seam between the first and second bolt.

Start up on square incut holds and then some left side-pulls to the second bolt.  Easier terrain leads to the base of the dihedral.  The 5.9 goes up the face to the right, and this route goes right up the arete on considerably harder climbing to the chains above.

This is just left of its brother.  It is long, sunstained, and slightly overhanging.  The crux is about 1/3 of the way up, but it doesn't stop there.  Push through and finish in the same broken roof as the route to the right.

This is an awesome, powerful line!

Start on a right-leaning set of stair-step blocks out of the bushes (or go straight up, 5.8ish) to a pretty high first bolt.  Pass 3 bolts on moderate 5.10 terrain, and then it gets more difficult all the way to the top.  Near the last two bolts, stay to the left of the broken dihedral that

Night and Day

goes through.  This will give you a fun and powerful undercling to get on to the final thin face.

There are no solid rests on this baby.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Homestake Road Crag