Start as for Abe's Oddysee, at the lowest point of the overhang on the giant undercling sidepull. Continue straight up passed the jug flakes to a small but decent left hand crimp, do a big pull to gain a perfect crimp out right and another huge pull and slap for the sloper. Pull the lip and finish on the spooky slab.

Surely a neo-Potters' classic! Full value! No refunds!

The Highway

Rumspringa

Abe's Oddysee

Original Generation Arete

Seams To Me

Soon I Will Be Gone

OG Arete SDS

Pita Chip Stick Clip

Roadhouse Blues

An oddysee of jugs, crimps, overhang and slab. Start all the way at the lowest point of the cave on a giant undercling sidepull. Follow jug flakes up and to the left, and make a crux lip encounter to the hole. Surmount the lip and continue the journey through the spooky slab to the top (up left, or up and right if you dare).

Start in the chest high break using whichever holds appeal to you. Make a big move up and right to a good incut in the overhanging face, move a bit right to the lip, mantel over and take a victory lap up somewhat suspect rock to the summit. Invigorating, particularly the mantle over the lip.

The grade reflects my opinion of the difficulty if you do not have to jump to the first incut. If, however, you are short, this will likely be substantially more difficult.

Start low on the arete on the right side. Pull on, and utilize the some compression with a unique gaston sequence to bypass the blank part of the face, then continue up and left finally topping out the bulge on good holds.

Start crouched with both hands in the angled seam. Climb through an engaging mix of physical and balancy movements straight up to the summit. Do not bail left underneath the shallow roof once you reach the crimps.

This is one of my favorite climbs in the entire SB area, but that is likely due as much to the climbing as the amount of effort it took to clean and solve this problem.

Similar to the Conch, I have a hard time determining the difficulty of this problem. It is unlike most other climbs in SB, and hence I don't have much to compare it to. Second, third, fourth, etc. opinions would be most welcome.

A must do for anyone who enjoyed the Original Generation Arete. Starts seated on the opposite arete adding a couple burly compression moves to link up with the OG Arete.

Sit start matched in the obvious large orange jug. Set a foot and move up and slightly right to immediately top out the boulder.

The holds are quite nice, I only wish there was some more climbing between starting and finishing.

Start sitting with your right hand on the obvious orange jug and your left in a sloping undercling in the hueco under the low roof. Head left to a knob hold and then bust up to a sloping topout. A wonderful little compression problem.

Surprisingly fun and full value for a smaller boulder. Reminds me of High Hat.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Canyon