Sometimes you know you've made a mistake, but that doesn't stop your pursuit of folly.  Climb straight up the middle of the face between Fat Man's Folly and Thin Man's Nightmare on bad rock with bad pro.  Better yet, don't.  The name says it all.  You've been warned.

Shit Sandwich

Saltimbanco

X-Rated Tits

Laura Scudders

Fat Man's Folly

An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route

Thin Man's Nightmare

Parental Guidance Suggested

Coyote Eggs

It's the first route on the left side of the rock. There is a messy approach through some bushes then climb the trough above. There's nothing special about the route, but you might as well do it while you're in the area.

Straight-in crack that splits a steep slab face behind a pine tree.  Located approx 200 yards right (south) of Laura Scudders on the east face of adjacent formation, which is the backside of the long and low loaf that one walking northward on the main trail passes just before getting to Lakeside Rock.  1992 Vogel book calls this Hardly Rock.  Saltimbanco is rated 5.7 in Bartlett's Central JT book, but seems much easier.  Felt more awkward than hard, and no harder than say Route 66 in N Wonderland.  Todd usu good and fair with ratings.  We were left quite aghast.  Maybe extra awkward for the tall?

Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.

Another memorable climb with a memorable name.

Great little route that, I believe, has gotten harder over the years due to erosion. It's great friction and edging practice with no risk to mind or body.You'll find it just to the right of Parental Guidance...

Begin near the right side of the previously mentioned roof and climb a slab up to the base of the roof. Set a piece (small cams work well) and pull the roof (crux) exiting onto more slabby face. From here seven bolts lead up and then left and up to a bolted anchor/rap.

Almost a sport route except for the piece needed under the roof, this is a well-protected climb that has good moves on good rock.

This route ascends the wide crack to the left of Coyote Eggs. Use the narrow ramp that ascends right to left to enter the bottom of the crack. Small wires are necessary to protect the next few feet until the crack widens. You'll find two mysterious bolts beneath the overhang at the top. The overhang is the crux. I've led this route numerous times and always enjoyed it. One more thing, there's a bolt on the lower face to protect the friction moves getting to the ramp.

This route begins about forty feet right of X-rated Tits. Climb the left leaning groove and the higher crack system. This is a good route for a novice leader. It was my daughter's first lead at this level of difficulty.

This is the bolted route just left of "An Eye for An Eye."  Crux is moving past the lip of the small roof at the beginning of the route.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lakeside Rock - West Face