Start 5' right of Heirloom on  a wavy/ broken crack system leading to a beautiful splitter hands to fists crack. Top out on the final bulge with Heirloom.  This route is slightly harder and trickier than heirloom with some small pro at the crux making it Spicy.    Descend off a shared two bolt anchor with Heirloom. 85'

Spicy Heirloom

Genetic Drift

Heirloom

Scion

Non-GMO

Tyrannosaurus Runt

Wavy Baby

Acromegaly

Genetic Continuity

The bottom half is right out of the Creek with clean jams and heroic roof pulls. The top half throws a bit of Sedona at ya, and stays interesting till the end.Start at the base of the obvious clean-cut corner. Jam your way up the corner and launch over a set of cubic roofs. Continue up the crack as it flares and passes through a variety of sizes, bringing you to a nice ledge with a two-bolt chain anchor.

Start on Genetic Continuity. Shoulder sling the third bolt. Where GC heads left, head up the right line of bolts into the obvious dihedral. Devious crux. Feedback is welcome.

Scion is a short splitter handcrack that makes a perfect warm-up for Heirloom. Thin hands widening to cupped hands/fists at the final roof.

This right-facing corner is a little funky and makes a good sidekick to Heirloom.Start by traversing in from the right through some yucky choss (1-1.25” cam placement midway) and up to clip a bolt about 15-20 feet off the ground that protects an awkward move to gain the corner. Shortly afterward is a thin crux bulge, then a nice steep handcrack. Finishes on easier terrain with one last mantel.

Named for the twin cracks outlining the shape of a cartoon dinosaur, not unlike the shape of T Rex Spire in West Sedona.

 Easiest way to start is by bouldering up to the right of the twin cracks and swinging left on the obvious triangle-shaped block. (Direct start is more true to the grade, but tricky to protect). Punch it through the steep twin cracks (crux). At the big ledge/alcove, step out right to follow an easy fist/offwidth crack on the varnished arête. There's a two-bolt chain anchor where the slab rolls over.

Wavy, thin-hands crack with a midway crux. Use caution as the route is still cleaning up.

Stock up on 5" cams to defeat this mutant on the Genetic Wall. It's a staircase offwidth perched nicely above Sedona-ville. Sun-drenched from mid-morning onward.

 After wading up from the tree through 4th-class choss, the route starts with a couple bomber fist jams to a stance, then it opens to 5-6" and stays that way until the chains. Solid arm-barring supplemented by oodles of suspect face holds on the left wall... good ol blue-collar fun! Peer into the crack periodically and notice that it extends exceptionally deep into the rock formation, like some kind of eerie corridor. The pitch ends at a two-bolt chain anchor below an ugly roof. I thought the route would continue through the roof but severe choss gets the final word on that.

A great route with very fun moves. Head up the typical Sedona choss start to your first bolt. At the third bolt head up and then left, up the arete to the crux and on to the anchors. There are anchors just to the left of the finish and are for another potential climb. If anyone is interested feel free. Please give feedback on the rating.

Genetic Wall is the set of dark red fins/buttresses immediately below and west of Devils Thumb, just across the drainage from the Planetarium. Here you'll find a small assortment of traditional lines and a pair of hard sport routes. This crag is seldom visited despite the super short approach, generally decent rock, and nice views.This is a great place for less-experienced folks to hone their crack-cilmbing skills. Warm up on Scion (5.8), ModeRNA Times (5.8), and Wavy Baby (5.9); then make your way over to the main attraction: Heirloom (5.10). Extra time calls for laps on Spicy Heirloom (5.10+) and Non-GMO (5.10-). Feeling strong? Have a go at Tyrannosaurus Runt (5.11- PG-13), which still hasn't seen a second ascent. Meanwhile, offwidthers can rack up the big cams for Acromegaly (5.9) and Mombay (5.10c).

Description

Protection

Routes in Genetic Wall