The start is the same as "

The Pearl

."  Instead of pulling onto the slab face and using a nice crimp to gain the upper arete, continue directly under the belly of the steep arete to the finish.  Sorry folks, pulling onto the slab at any point does not count for the free ascent of this line.  Good luck and happy sending!!

Anteater Direct

The Pearl

Mr. Gibbs

Jacob's Ladder

Anteater

The Pearl is a very tricky, technical, fun problem.  Sds on the arete right of the overhanging face using a juggy left sidepull and a right hand sloper around the arete.  Bump up right to the flat sloper and with some footwork trickery, make your way up the arete to the sloping knob with crystals on it and pull over the arete to a good crimp that you can match.  Finally, a desperate couple of 5.11ish slab moves will take you to the top.

Mr. Gibbs starts on a sloping jug on the left side of the overhanging face.  Make your way all the way up the arete to the ship's prow and mantle over.

Start with your left hand on a sidepull and your right hand on a crimp approximately two feet to the right of the sidepull.  The start is on the right side of the face.  Pull up to left hand sloper/crimp in the crack.  Stand up on left foot.  Move hands to ledge almost directly above the left foot.  Traverse left on sloping crimps to the "Black Pearl."  Climb up to top out.

It's a good climb. The crack system and jugs are off to the right and above the first hold after the start. If you take that way, downgrade your climb to V3ish.  Check the pic. The rock quality is good and solid.

Starts as

The Pearl

, but when you get to the move over on the slab, stay on the arete and work your way up to a sloping edge/crimp, match, and go for the nose.  Mantle over.  Committing moves near the end and that nose is slippery.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Black Pearl