Start sitting just right of turtle head roof on face. Climb left using a crimp rail underneath roof. Make big move to lip of roof near the Lily Pad boulder then bearhug roof and climb to top of turtle head. Mantle head to topout. #4 on the beta photo

Dragon Tails

Dragons Lair

Steve's Problem

Lilypad Problem

Warm-up akaTurtle Flakes

Puff the Magic Dragon

Prelude to Fear

This is the invert offwidth climb located at the back of the small cave shared with Dragon Tails. Start as far back in the cave as you can, throw both feet up into the crack as deep as you can, and then start working left. The climb uses heel/toe cams to shuffle yourself left while tracking the hands along the edge of the boulder your stomach is pressed against. Offwidth shuffle left to a weird move to flip yourself around and finish with the same topout as Dragon Tails. 

Start standing underneath small bulge/roof. Climb up and over to top.  #1 on the beta photo.

The best problem out of the bunch down here.. I'd give it more stars if it wasn't so sharp. Start with right hand on the thin crimp or slot at about head height and left hand on the undercling flake. Work up to the three finger pocket, top out straight up. #2 on the beta photo.

Sit start and climb the flake to the top.  Big holds all the way. Aka Sorry! in New England Bouldering

Stat on the crimps as for dragon tails, instead of moving into the roof make a move with the left hand straight up to a down pulling crimp, throw your right foot high and out right and you can then lean our right through a series of left facing edges. From here span out to a good edge far out on the right face or you can track in with the left hand to one of the left facing edges, resettle your feet, and reach up to the lip, topping out the same as for Turtle Flakes. 

Start sitting below and slightly to the left of Lilly Pad. Akward climbing for several moves and then finish on Lilly Pad.    [Variation:]  start below and slightly right of Lilly Pad. Climb up and into Lilly Pad (V9) - This is probably the better line.

Down hill from Mack's Traverse, next to the small lilly pond is a clump of boulders. Looking at them from the pond, on the left is a tall, steep prow where The Lillypad problem is located, and to the right is the "turtle head". Secluded compared to the warm up cave, usually you won't find many climbers down here, but there are a few problems worth a visit.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lilypad Boulders