Redemption Crack follows a diagonal crack from the ground to top of Redemption Crag. This climb gets harder and harder as you make your way to the top. The crux is the final move, a step up from precarious footholds to a good ledge. A lack of handholds makes this move more challenging than the rest of the climb.

Redemption Crack

5.8 Face

Redemption Crack Direct

Casual Monday

Slytherin

Unknown face climb

Karkus

Side Alley

5.9 Face

Shadow Council Line

Diagon Alley

This has fairly sustained and occasionally thin face climbing up the steep slab on perfect rock to the small overlap. Make a bouldery move on good holds to mantel over the overlap, then climb some less-than-inspiring, easy ground for another 20 feet to the top. Pin scars in the crack up top (anchor) indicate this used to be a popular TR.

Starting at the toe of the cliff to the right of the overhang (good boulder problem), climb the face straight up until you intersect Redemption Crack at the crux. Top out as you would for Redemption Crack. This is fairly sustained at the grade after gaining the ledge.

This line is already in between two lines and starts on the right next to a small ledge. There are plenty of small and scattered handholds to grip onto as you make your way up to the crux. Once you get to the crux, there will be a small branch jutting out of the rock. There are hand holds on your left and right for grip and stability. Once stable, your next move is to go left onto the slab that has a ledge on top of it. There will be a foothold on your left about two and a half feet over. Lock your toe into it, and grab onto the ledge with your left hand. Move your right hand to the left side of the wall near the sticking out tree. Move your left leg onto the rock sticking out, and move your right leg over. Once stable, grab onto edge of the ledge and pull yourself up. Once on the ledge, move over to the right, and climb up and off.Note: the rock is fairly dirt covered and has moss and vegetation growing at the ledge which can make holds difficult. The rock is also flaky, so be careful when grabbing holds.

Slytherin is a face climb with several small, horizontal cracks. It was named for the way it twists left, right, and back left across the face before topping out to the right of the corner at its top. Slytherin requires several balance and good footwork.

To the right of Redemption Crack is a clean face. Climb the face staying right of the vertical seam, passing several horizontal cracks. Excellent rock makes you wish it was taller.

This is a face climb with varied horizontal features. The route lacks a clear crux but is fun and straitforward.

This is a variation off Diagon Alley using the face to the right of the Diagon crack.

Start on the thin face to the left of the 5.8 Face climb staying to the right of the dirty, diagonal crack. Climb to a good jug, then work up and left across the face and through a small overlap. Good topout holds lead to a ledge with an old pin anchor (don’t use it... the anchor in the summit block for the two routes to the right works just fine).

The start is a little messy, working around the tree to avoid a poor position for your belayer. Working around to the right of the bulge halfway up is the crux, but it protects well with <1 cams and Tricams. The topout lends to nice tree to anchor off. For a toprope, I would recommend some redirects about halfway up to avoid a bumpy swing.

The climb starts out with easy and varied holds and foot placements for its first third. The middle section is more thin face climbing, followed by the crux at the top where holds are thin.

Mentioned briefly in the Boston Rocks guidebook, Redemption Crag offers some decent climbing for times when Crow Hill Ledge is overcrowded. Approximately 35 feet high at its highest, it has good quality rock. Fixed anchors on two trees were present as of two years ago. I do not know the route history here, but an abundance of chalk on the lower portion of the wall indicate it gets frequent climbers. Also worth mentioning is that this crag dries very quickly after a rainstorm, at least in the winter through spring when the leaves are down. It gets all day sun and can be very pleasant. Please be considerate of the family that owns the house near the base of the crag. Keep the noise down and no dogs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Redemption Crag