Approach as per Solar Slab Gully.  The start of Johnny Vegas is just to the left (when facing the wall), behind a boulder perched on a short pedestal of rock. 

  p1.  Start up the double cracks, which eventually become a single crack.  As the protection starts to become sparser, trend up and left.  Belay at a bolted anchor on a platform at the base of a short dark dihedral.  A long pitch. 

  p2.  Stem up the dihedral to gain a face with some questionable rock.  Continue up and slightly right to another bolted belay, below the base of a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof. 

  p3.  Head up and right on the easy but run out slab, and continue up, and around the corner.  The pro is better once around the corner.  The crux route-finding is deciding when to surmount the apex of the face and start trending back to the left.  It's easy to come up to slabby ground and find yourself above the belay/rappel anchor. 

  p4.  Head up easy climbing to the boulders near the edge of the main Solar Slab Terrace, and continue scrambling up to the base of Solar Slab if so desired. 

  With the exception of p4, all of the pitches felt like they had some 5.6 climbing, and some friable rock. 

  Rappel from the top of p3 with two ropes (or if you only have one rope, head down Solar Slab Gully).

Johnny Vegas

Some handcrack

Solar Slab Gully

Tan Line

Dubious Flirtations

Sandstone Overcast

Marble Madness

Beulah's Book

Corona

Frieda's Flake

Certain Air

Some fingercrack

Horndog

Solar Flare

Beulah's Arete

This route is something that Larry had been eyeing for a while, well, he had mostly been eyeing the giant roof just up and left from the top of Pitch 2 of Johnny Vegas. Now all we had to do was find a way up there. Larry had heard of a route between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book that may offer passage to the route- which it did, with a slight variation. 

  Pitch 1: Start in a right facing dihedral about 50 or 60' left  of Johnny Vegas. Head up this, passing a bolt and eventually arriving at the first belay for Johnny Vegas. From here, continue up to a large ledge about 20' up and belay. 5.8, 185' 

  Pitch 2: In the middle of the ledge there is a crack system heading straight up. Follow this until it starts to arch to the left, then step right and go straight up the face, aiming for where the roof above is at its smallest. Belay just above the roof at a stance. 5.8, 150' 

  Pitch 3: The aid pitch. Head up somewhat easy ground to the base of the overhang. Climb up a couple of moves and then aid through the rest, making a somewhat exposed move at the lip of the roof. Creative gear allows for an anchor right at the lip to prevent rope drag. 5.8 C1, 50'.  

  Pitch 4: Step to the right and head up and past the bolted station at the top of P3 of Johnny Vegas. Belay at the bolts or boulders above. 5.4, 150'. 

  Variation: If you're not into the aid climbing thing, you can traverse left under the roof and belay there, then continue to the top. This goes at 5.8+ or 5.9 for a couple of moves.

Hand / wide hand / fist crack. Goes up to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. 70m rope reached the ground with some leftover, not absolutely sure a 60m would, but I think it's likely. Length is an estimate.

 Route is pretty straightforward. Just be wary at the softer rock and flakes near the anchors. (Be sure your belayer knows, wear helmets)

 We used a single rack to BD #4 as that's what we already had, but multiples in #3 would be better and then no need for the #4.

 Placeholder name since I don't know who put it up, what it's called, and what they would like it to be graded.

 Also can TR the harder finger crack / seam to the right from the same anchor. (Continue to be wary of the soft flaky rock up high)

Solar Slab Gully is mainly used as an approach to get to the upper face and climb Solar Slab. The climbing is not particularily appealing, but still fun. The pitches are not very distinct, and many belay spots are possible. Follow the prominent trail that starts at the Oak Creek Canyon parking lot for 45 minutes to an hour or so to get to a huge gully on the right.P1) Pick a route up the gully. Many possiblities exist. A wide crack is in the middle of the face, or a smaller crack to the right. Step around left eventually to a fixed anchor. (5.1)P2) Scramble and chimney up the left side of the gully. When the gully opens up, a belay is possible at an oak tree with slings to the right. Another option is to continue until a wide steeper section is encountered. (4th class)P3) Climb up this water worn area passing a sling-threaded hole. This is a possible belay, but it is best to continue on. Belay when comfortable. (5.1)P4) Scramble up to a vertical wide chimney that is often wet. Belay. (4th class)P5) Climb the chimney. A set of anchors is immediately at the top left of the chimney, or continue higher to the main terrace. (5.3)Descent: Rappel the route. Fixed anchors can be found in many places. 5 rappels are necessary and some easy down climbing. Make sure to make mental notes as to where the anchors are at in case of a rappel in the dark after Solar Slab. With two ropes, it's possible to reduce the number of rappel pitches by starting at the top of Jonny Vegas and descending into Solar Slab Gully. This anchor is located climber's left of the top of Solar Slab Gully, right by the large boulder. (Link to Jonny Vegas: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105732251/johnny-vegas)

A great alternative to the gully or Johnny Vegas.  Probably done before, but never found a piece of tat or broken branch to let us know.  (Edit* There's a pin at P2 belay!) Regardless, a fun romp up the lower level.  Great rock, easy route finding, and comfy belays.Start by getting to the base of the Gully, then scrambling up and right onto a ledge behind the clump of trees.P1. 5.6 140' Climb up the chimney/flake/crack feature, mostly using the holds on the left wall.  This brings you to the varnished chimney.  Get in, and climb the black rock face on the left, until the rock quality suddenly deteriorates.  Conveniently this is on a ledge, so move left to the best stance and belay from cams in the crack.P2.  5.6 110' Go straight up into the solid crack (5.6)  and follow the obvious feature above.  Climb parallel to the wide, deep crack until you arrive at the nice ledge to belay by the tree.P3.  5.7 200'+ Straight up to the bulge.  Protect with a small cam, then move left, pull up, and perform a balancey move over the cam.  This is certainly the crux.  A cam could be blindly placed in the crack mid crux.   Sneaky sidepulls and holds exist in the black rock to make this move possible at the grade.  From here it's a straight forward run to the top, with optional pro in the right hand crack.  You won't be placing much as the rock quality is so good and the climbing so easy.   At the end, move 20' left to a cleft for the path of least resistance.   We belayed off a #4 in a pod, but other gear may exist to the right.  A body belay would suffice.You are now level with the top of Solar Slab Gully and have access to the upper tier routes.

Dubious Flirtations has a nice variation of climbing, some spice, and a touch of adventure.  It is located the left side of the Solar Wall, in a small alcove just to the left of the Sunburn Buttress.  In the alcove, there is a small varnished face split by a razor thin crack rising from the right side of a very clean, rectangular ceiling.  The route starts in the corner leading up to this crack. 

  Move up to a short but wide left-facing corner on face holds and blocks.  Continue up the wide corner (number 4 camalot) through the small roof and onto the fingercrack spitting the face.  Climb the fingercrack until it seals up.  Move out right on face holds to a chimney system and stance.  5.10b/c Belay takes 1"-3" 

  At this point, you can move right and up (careful for loose rock!) to a rappel from a pine tree next to the second belay on Sunburn Buttress, or continue upward on that route.

At least 3 pitches.  3rd anchor is ~30' left of the Solar Flare P4 anchor (the traverse looked protectable).P1 is just under 35m, P2 & P3 looked 30-40m each.P2 and P3 looked mostly easy, P1 is 5.10.  The roof 30m off the ground felt very similar to the adjacent Solar Flare roof.

 PG13 is my guess w/o actually trying to lead. Could be R for all I know.    1st bolt is ~30' off the ground.(sorry for adding a route w/o complete info but it looks to be at least 3 years old, and waiting for a proper ascent may take a while)

This is a great route with varied climbing.  Approach as for Solar Slab Gully, but head left and along a ledge system before reaching the base of the gully.  Squeeze past a couple of trees to the base of the first pitch. 

  P1- (5.6) Go up a short dihedral and step left at a chockstone.  Continue up past a bolt and up the face to a nice belay ledge below the chimney.  It also looked possible to step into an easy chimney shortly after the bolt which leads to the same belay ledge. 

  P2- Enter the obvious chimney and climb up past a bolt (5.9).  Exit the chimney, and head up the great dihedral above (5.9).  Step left at the top to a two bolt belay. 

  P3- Climb up and right across the slab above (5.5 no pro) and continue up through intermittent cracks to the large terrace below Solar Slab.  This pitch was a full 60m. 

  Either descend Solar Slab Gully from here or finish the day on Solar Slab. 

About 30' to the right of Solar Flare, climb a clean, left-facing corner.  When the corner gets too smooth, make a delicate step left.  There is a bolted anchor a short distance above the overhang.  It is possible to move left below the overhang and join the easy crack leading to the second belay on Solar Flare.

This enjoyable route offers a chimney pitch with an awkward narrow crux near the top, before reaching a comfortable belay ledge outside the chimney. Another pitch leads up the crack that is a continuation of the chimney, then out right onto the face and up steep enjoyable climbing to the last pitch of Johnny Vegas, which is the most natural finish. Though Handren's guide describes this route as a two pitch climb, you'd really have to stretch it out to do it that way, and three pitches seemed more comfortable. 

This line climbs through the steep roofs just to the left of Horndog and tops out at the base of Upper Solar Slab. Good rock and good gear are found the entire way. It runs through the first two roofs then around the third, finishing on fun face climbing to the top. The exposed crux is the second roof. 

  Pitch 1 and 2 were originally done in two short pitches (one roof each pitch) to avoid rope drag but can easily be linked. Pitch 4 is also the original finish to Horndog. 

  Pitch 1-5.8-Climb crack on arete of formation then veer right onto varnished face and back into corner below roof. Climb out roof to ledge and belay or link with P2.   Pitch 2-10b/c-Climb steep roof. Belay below third roof.   Pitch 3-5.6-Climb right under third roof on giant knobs then over roof as soon as possible. Straight up to top.   Pitch 4-5.8-Climb crack to the left of obvious left-facing flake that starts near top of gulley. 

Dihedral leading to face, then a seam with a few 1-2 finger pods. Face holds are crucial. At 5'6" I had to lunge to a great crimp where my taller partner had an easier time. Rock right under the anchor is flaky. (Tap on holds, notify belayer, wear helmets)

 70m definitely reaches. I feel like 60m should reach, but may be close.

 We TR'd off the 2 bolt anchor reached on "some handcrack."

 There is opportunity for lots of small nuts in the seam if one wanted to lead it.

 No idea who the FA belongs to, no idea what they call it, no idea what they want it graded.

Horndog is located on the lower reaches of the Solar Slab, about 100 yards to the right (east) of Solar Slab Gully. Approach as per the Gully route but break to the right from the trail at the last moment. 

  Horndog is a three pitch route that will take you to the giant terrace about a quarter of the way up the Solar Slab cliff. From here you can access many other routes such as (l-r) Going Nuts, Solar Slab, Heliotrope, Sunflower and Sundog.  

  "Horndog Select" is a continuation of the three pitch Horndog route, climbing above it from the terrace. This section was improved by the addition of two, more difficult pitches at the top, and thus became known as Sundog. 

  Pitch 1 of Horndog climbs a fairly low angle crack through bizzare black varnish and it takes you up to the right side of a roof. Cut right below the roof - the climbing is quite steep here. Once around the roof, ramp up to the left, climb the face for about fifteen feet and then cut right again, to a large black heuco. Belay here. (5.8, 170 feet) 

  Pitch 2 continues straight up a black water streak through several more large huecos. As the climbing becomes more steep bear left along a nice finger crack to small ledge. Ramp up right to a giant ledge and belay. (5.8 170 feet)  

  For the next pitch, you'll have to move your belay station across a shallow chimney to the base of a right leaning fist crack. 

  Pitch 3 follows the fist crack to the top, which brings you to the terrace. (5.8 140 feet)

This is a good quality line.  The rock is mostly solid and the climbing is mostly moderate.  However, it does "flare" up at two distinct cruxes.  The second and succeeding belays have bolted anchors that would allow retreat with a single 60-meter rope.  It MIGHT be possible to rappel from the pitch-2 anchors slightly right to reach a bolted station at the top of Corona, and go from there to the ground. 

  Pitch 1: A pleasant crack leads up 100' to a small stance beneath an overhang.   Pitch 2: Traverse right to a break in the roof and move up past a bolt (5.10) to easier climbing and a bolted belay station.   Pitch 3: Easy climbing up the corner above takes you to another bolted belay station.   Pitch 4: Continue up, passing a protection bolt (5.9) on the bulge above, to reach another bolted station.   Pitch 5: Moderate climbing goes up the cracks and face to the Lower Shoulder.  There is an optional bolted belay/rap station a short distance below the shoulder. 

  Descend by rappeling the route.  All the upper pitches can be rapped with one rope (which is probably advisable because there are a lot of snaggy horns).  There is not a bolted station at the top of pitch one, so it easiest to do a 2-rope rappel from the P2 anchors.

Pitch 1: Start at the base of Beulah's Book. Continue left and up the face ramp below the continuing arete and face left of the classic chimney dihedral known as the Beulah's Book line. One long 65 meter pitch places you above the bolted arete at a two bolt belay station. Pitch 2: Continue up on the face past intermittent cracks and a sea of small jugs. This second pitch, finishes as a full 70 meter line that ends with establishing an anchor system on a few angling cracks. Feel free to provide and submit more information.

For organizational purposes, the Solar Slab is divided into a lower and an upper tier.  Obviously, a complete ascent to the very top would require linking a lower and upper route, or following one of the full-length routes described in the Upper Tier section.  Most of routes in this section go from the ground to Terrace, a giant, multi-acre ledge about 500 feet up.  There are two main ways to descend from the Terrace.  Most common is to rappel the Solar Slab Gully.  This can be done with a single rope.  Alternatively, there are bolted rap anchors on Johnny Vegas; this route requires two ropes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier