Pillar is a short route that starts at the same platform as Dihedral One and Common Denominator. It climbs a corner on the left side of a prominent pillar that lies to the left (north) of these routes.

Climb up flakes and cracks and step right to a right-facing corner.  Climb the corner, clip a bolt, and step up right to the 2-bolt anchor.

Some fun moves, but lots of lichen since the route has seen little traffic.  Barely gets one star.

Pillar

Common Denominator

Dominator

A Cheval

Dihedral  One

Curvilinear

Dihedral Two

Dom Perignon

Dominatrix

This secluded, seldom-done climb is worth seeking out.

The route climbs a left-arching thin crack and ramp with a pine tree at the top, starting in an alcove left of the Three Dihedrals; see

boulderclimbs.com/climbing/…

Approach: There are two ways to get to the climb:

1. From the creek, climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean traverse to the branch trail to Tarot Wall.  Go 30' left on the branch trail, then head right and up on a faint trail.  Continue up until you can cut left across some rocks below the three dihedrals to a wooded gully.  Go up the gully to an alcove at the start of the climb.

2. From the Dominator-Clipboard area, head downhill past the big dead tree.  At your first opportunity, cut right across some rocks below the three dihedrals to a wooded gully.  Go up the gully to an alcove at the start of the climb.

The route: stem the corner at the back of the alcove to a stance just right of the crack.  Step left and climb the crack and ramp.  Belay from the pine tree at the top.

Descent: rappel 40' from slings and rings on the tree.

I used gear from a blue to an orange Alien and a #3 Ball Nut for pro.  Double green and yellow Aliens are useful.

Sustained, interesting climbing; would get two stars if it were longer.

Approach:  Take the left branch in the approach as though going to The Horse, The Tower, et cetera.  After about 20 feet, go right on an obvious trail as though going up to The Clipboard.  After 50 feet or so, go left around the corner on a ledge and arrive at a pleasant platform beneath the Three Dihedrals, maybe 50 feet short of Curvilinear.

Belay on a great ledge and climb a low-angle slab to a small ledge about 40 feet up (could belay here).  Climb a 2-inch crack that angles up to the right and gain a stance at the base of a nice arete.  Follow bolts up the arete and face just left of the arete to a 2-bolt anchor with rings at 100 feet.  5 bolts plus gear.  Lower off.

Hike the faint trail to Avalon until you reach the base of the Three Walls formation, a distinct buttress sporting a broad, low-angled west face. The colorful route

Strange Science

marks the northwest and lowest boundary. To the right of

Strange Science

is a large roof, which has a pillar-like arete on its right margin. From this reference, go left, and scramble up some boulders. This will take you to a ledge with a dead tree on it.  This climb follows a very obvious bolt line and will be right in front of you.  On your right, there will be a sheer, bolted (5.11?) face.

This climb goes straight up, and is pretty strenuous and slightly overhanging, with some cracks on the upper half of the climb.  It is well protected, and finishes at a two-bolt anchor.

This entry was for completeness.

There is a route in this area that was not listed either on MP.com or in Boulder Canyon guidebooks that may have been there for 5 years or so.

Just left of

Dihedral One

are a few bolts that may make you wonder.

Head up easy slab to the base of the obvious dihedral of

Dihedral One

. Spot the bolt on the small arete or sorts. Climb easy rock past 2 bolts. You may thread a chockstone. Find a crux near a third bolt where the feet and hands are suddenly not juggy. The climbing difficulty eases and there is a crack on the left side of the arete which can take protection. Scamper up to the 2 bolt anchor of

Dihedral One

.

Begin down and left from the

Dominator

.

Set up on a ledge beneath a ramp that leans up to the east.  Climb the ramp (Class 4), then climb straight up the leftmost dihedral to the 2-bolt anchor at the top.

This route is just left of

Common Denominator

.

Dihedral Two starts in the same place as Dihedral One and Common Denominator: at a ledge below a low-angle slab.

Climb the slab and head to the corner just right of the arete on Common Denominator.  Battle past bushes to the corner, then battle past more bushes starting up the corner (crux).  Follow the corner up and break left at the top to the anchor on Common Denominator.  There's a good ledge here so you can bring up your partner.  Lowering is also an option; be careful since it is a 100' pitch.

Note: the clean corner just to the right of Dihedral Two is on Dominatrix.  It's tempting to go this way, but it's not the route.

Some decent climbing in the upper corner, but the bush battle necessitates a Bomb rating.  Pruning shears and herbicide may improve the climbing experience.

Right of

Dominator

is a hand crack with 2 bolts, one low, one high. Richard calls it 10a, but it is way easier than

Dominator

.

Start in a left-facing corner 20' downhill from Dominator, by a large pine tree.

Climb the corner past a bolt (5.8) to a ledge.  The cracks to the left of the corner can also be climbed (5.10a).

Step right (5.8) and climb a V-dihedral with a good crack to a 2-bolt anchor.

Belay from a small ledge at the top, and rappel.

Description

Protection

Routes in Three Dihedrals