If you know the name of this route, PM me, and I'll fix it!

Central Milk Creek.

Start with decent hands but some slippery feet to a good stance. Continue up with good jams and several rests. As you get near the top, you'll need to make a delicate step to the left, but it's easier than it appears from below.

Dog Leash Harness

Planet of the Ape's Index

Right Crack

Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack

Non Nimis Stercus

5.8 Hand Jams

Walkin' On Air

Slanty Hands

Wrong Crack

If you know the name of this, PM me, and I'll fix it!

Climb perfect hands and laybacking for 50 feet. It is a shame that it's not longer!  Excellent gear make this great for the nervous crack leader at this grade.

This has excellent jamming and laybacking from bottom to top. There's no distinct crux, but there's not much rest for the first 20 feet, so crank through that, then enjoy a nice big rest where you can pull your feet out of the crack before tackling the top.

There is a large chockstone 3/4 of the way up. It looks like it would be cruxy, but it turns out to be the easiest part of the climb.

Planet of the Ape's Index starts with really wild, bouldery moves to get established in the crack, but it is high quality. The low bolts are key to keeping you off the deck, be sure you have a good belay. Continue with quality crack climbing through the rest of it, and do some exciting moves to finish it off. Its well protected and a lot of fun, get on it!

Climb the right corner crack to the top of the pillar, then finish with a fun hand jam.

Located on the right side of the crag is the obvious ROOF. Thin crack leads up to 5.10 hands out the roof until it widens at its end (crux). Grunt and squeeze out the lip to use the tree above for the anchor.

Non Nimis Stercus ascends the corner right above a juniper. It looks pretty mungy. It is, but the movement is surprisingly good. It is thin tips at the bottom, the crack flairs out in the back through the middle, but there is sufficient protection. The crux is where it seams out to nothing at the top of the corner. It protects well though, don't get too pumped clipping the chains! Get on it!

I think it's probably hard 5.11. Feel free to post an update if you think otherwise. It may be worth aiding once to get the gear figured out, it's a little funky.

Beta alert:

I'll leave this here just because the gear is a little weird, a 0.4, 0.1, and 0.2 protect the lower tips crux. Make sure you feel good about those placements. A 0.3 goes in right after the lower crux. The upper crux protects with a

bomber

0.5 by your feet. You can fish in a very small offset RP above that, but it's a blind placement.

Walkin' On Air has 2 cruxes of 5.10+. Toward the left side of the crag there is an old bolted face climb. Then, next climb to the right is a right-facing corner with thin jams that I always thought was about 5.10a/b. The next climb to the right is Walking On Air. It's kinda a "K" shaped feature with an arching crack to start. Pull through a blocky roof to a pinky-lock (10+) and up to a rest halfway up. Lie-back the upper balancy corner and Walk on Air!!!

Hop up the easy blocks that are shared with the

5.7 crack

to the left. Move right, and cruise through a perfect layback crack for 20 feet.

The crack bends to the right and becomes a bit offwidth. Getting through this transition is the crux. Place a wide piece above your head, and pull through.

Go up the wide crack to a small roof which has a surprisingly good finger ledge leading out to the left. Follow that around the overhang, and then easily get to the anchors.

Traverse in from the left on a perfect handrail about 8 feet off the ground.  Establish yourself at the base of the crack using a good undercling, place a solid piece or pro (or two), and crank up the overhang with poor feet.

Just over the crux of Slanted Hands.

Once you have your feet in the crack, continue up excellent jams for hands and fingers and perhaps throw in a layback or two. The climbing eases, but the initial overhang gets you pumped.

The top section is easier - perhaps 5.9 - but the rock quality is lower.

Climb the crack just left of

Right Crack

. Layback or hand jam up to the top of the pillar, and make your way past the overhang.

This is a good, little warm-up for the climbs in this area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Entrada Band - East)