From the upper flat between Old Man and Old Woman scramble up a steep scramble trail around the base of Old Woman's west face. When you come to a narrow cleft on the northwest corner of Old Woman sling a tree to establish your fist belay. Pitch-1: From outside the cleft scramble onto the leg of the northwest ridge leading to the summit of Old Woman. The first 5 feet off the ground can be a little tricky. Once off the ground follow the ridge about 40 feet where you'll find a crack to place a cam. Continue up the ridge placing gear as needed until you come to the bottom of a narrow gully up the left side of the ridge. Establish a belay. Pitch-2: Climb the gully up the left side of the ridge topping out on a ledge at the summit where you will find a bolted belay without chains. Rappel to the start of the climb (two ropes). PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Northwest Ridge Route (old woman)

The Prize

Dilley's Delight

West Dihedral (Old Woman)

A shallow-intrusive rhyodacite pinnacle. This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches. First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60'). The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.

P1: 60 feet, follow the ramp (class 4) to a large crack on the northwest side of tower. Follow crack (5.6) to Notch on West side of tower, build gear anchor (#2 & #3, #.75 optional)   P2: 80 feet, follow crack to the cave, bypass the old bolts from first party and continue over bulge and up the next crack. At bolt traverse right to low angle gully and continue to top. Bolted Anchor on Summit.

Crux (5.7+) will be first 15 ft moving on to easier slab, finishing by way of a brush filled crack to the summit.

The impressive spire above the North Umpqua River about 50 miles up river from Roseburg. This area has a long climbing history that goes back to 1963 when Mike Dilley, Mark McLaughlin, Brian Gannon, Janet Niece, and Gary Kirk made the first ascent via 2 pitch Dilley's Delight (5.8). The first Tyrolean Traverse was made between The Old Woman and Old Man Spire in 1980 by Doug Smith.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old Man Spire