This is the route previously known as chicks and ticks. I finally got around to putting a couple bolts in it and is a fun lead.

[Redacted]

Tick in the taint

You Should See the Horses

Great wide open

Chicks and ticks

One eyed trouser snake

Blue steel arete

Slippery snake

Snakes and ladders

Snake eyes

Big girl panties

Magnum face

Boys don't cry

Climb about twenty feet up on easy, clean rock to the first bolt. A cam is available before clipping this. Step right and up past some kinda thin slab by moves past two more bolts and green camalot in a slot above third bolt. Move up to an anchor and either belay here or clip it long and move right to the continuation up a clean orange arête. Two more bolts to a two bolt anchor. One long rap with a 70 or if not sure use intermediate anchor to get down.

Mixed route.  Follow three black bolts to chains.  There are a variety of cracks down lower that take good cam placements, up to #1 C4.  There is a mini-crux right before the last bolt that can seem a little tenuous.  A bomber nut up and left will protect the move (something like a BD 7). Clip the last bolt and mantle to the chains (crux).

This climb is on a different section further left as you look at the crag. Hike up the scree slope to the center of the compact grey slab. P1 starts in a sea below a bolt, straight up past three bolts and gear to number 1 Camelot. 2 BB. 5.8.30m

P2 heads up and left through two roof lines to gain a dished slab with a shallow corner in the middle. Five bolts, a pin and small cams up to a .75. Very nice pitch pulling through roofs, great moves. Ends at a 2 BB at an awesome ledge. 5.8+30m

P3 climbs directly above belay following seams and a couple easy bulges to a 2 BB , gear to 2 Camelot. 5.7 30 m.

This little slab is immediately left of snakes and ladders and is a fun toprope after you have rapped off the previous climb.

This route has now been straightened out with a direct start. Start at the bottom of the large corner system to the right of snakes and ladders. Climb slab to left but use corner for pro up to 4". Move left to a bulge, small cam in a horizontal protects some slabby moves to a ledge and bolt, continue up to original bolt then follow flakes and main corner with good cams to 2".  Clip a pin and make crux moves over smooth stone, then more cams protect the last moves to a semi hanging belay. 2BB. Rap off chains single 60m rope.

This climbs the obvious sharp arête to the left of two bit whore. Fun balancy moves up the arête to anchor. Watch for a little loose block about half way up. Tried to get it out many times!

This climbs the face left of snake eyes.first climb some easy cracks with gear to where the slab gets compact and steepens. Bolt then balancy moves straight up to a good #2camalot and foot stance below crux and another bolt. Thin smears follow to a shallow flake and a good piece  of gear in a slot. Follow the crack up and right past more gear to the snake eyes anchor

First route climbed at slabs, nice outing up a flake that dog legs up the slab. Climb flake to anchor. Nice moves lay backing and a mantle to top.

The other obvious arête left of blue steel. Great rock with a feisty crux at the obvious dogleg in arête about a third of the way up. Thin moves past this to a good finger crack and a cam. Continue up past a couple more bolts to top.

This route starts by climbing two bit whore to the intermediate anchor. It is better to belay here for drag. Climb up and left above anchor, good cam, then onto arête and a bolt. Pull around left and follow slab/ arête past a large block forming an under cling, bolt. Move up and left to top of flake and steep bulge, bolt. Launch out left on obvious white flake till you can pull around to good stance and bolt. Did you have your big girl panties on? Go straight up to anchor, rap route.

This climbs  the face to the left of blue steel. Move up flakes and cracks to a pin below a bulge, thin moves through this onto some sustained edging above and a little spaced gear. Continuous climbing up and right and to the right facing flake below and left of blue steel anchors.

The first pitch climbs the obvious arete to the right of great wide open. Clip a bolt and make some slabby moves up to a diagonal crack with good nut pro. Continue up the arete past three more bolts and some gear to a 2BB on a good ledge. 30m, 5.8.

P2 Continue up the arete past a bolt , over a bulge with good pro and into the shallow corner system on the right, fixed pin, some gear then another bolt. Make harder moves stemming and smearing up the corner, good gear to 3" then a 2BB at another good ledge. 30m, 5.9+. Great pitch.

The route will probably continue past this pitch but hasn't been done yet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The. Old sawmill slabs